Take me to your LEADERS !!

[Hairstacker]

Joseph, thanks for the explanation! I think I've followed what you said. The one thing that's not clear, though, is how you transition from nails 1-2 to 2-3. Seems like after you do the 8 loops around nails 1 and 2, you are now sitting at nail 1. How do you get to nail 3? Do you just extend from nail 1 to 3, then do the 5 loops around nails 2 and 3 and so on? And obviously the spacing between the nails is important since you mentioned a formula, which I imagine, along with the number of loops, accounts for the tapering of the diameter so it turns over properly. How on earth did you figure this out? Finally, do you just attach the mono/fluoro tippet to the end of these things? And do you think this thing would work for a bass leader that calls for, say, a 0x - 2x tippet that will be attached to, say, a size 2 deerhair bug? Sorry for all the questions, but I (and maybe others??) am really interested. Thanks again!

[Joseph]

Joseph, thanks for the explanation! I think I've followed what you said. The one thing that's not clear, though, is how you transition from nails 1-2 to 2-3. Seems like after you do the 8 loops around nails 1 and 2, you are now sitting at nail 1. How do you get to nail 3? Do you just extend from nail 1 to 3, then do the 5 loops around nails 2 and 3 and so on? And obviously the spacing between the nails is important since you mentioned a formula, which I imagine, along with the number of loops, accounts for the tapering of the diameter so it turns over properly. How on earth did you figure this out? Finally, do you just attach the mono/fluoro tippet to the end of these things? And do you think this thing would work for a bass leader that calls for, say, a 0x - 2x tippet that will be attached to, say, a size 2 deerhair bug? Sorry for all the questions, but I (and maybe others??) am really interested. Thanks again!

Mike - Your assumption is correct - you do go from 1 to 3, 2 to 4, etc... One part I left out in the first description is that as you are making your loops on nails 2 and 3, 3 and 4, etc.... you have to take the thread inside the previous loop. So, as you are coming up from #3 nail back to the #2 nail you take the thread through the loop formed by #1 and #2 nails. Otherwise the links of the chain wouldn't be connected.

I can't take credit for figuring it out - its an old method of making leaders. A friend of mine in Chico helped me get started and with his OK I'll get the instructions he sent me hosted somewhere so I can post it if you are interested. Its currently a WORD doc.

Yes - you attach your tippit to the end of it. I tie in a perfection loop at the end of the leader - actually both ends. I just put a perfection loop on the tippit and do a loop to loop.

These leaders would work great for big bass flies. You would just use heavier thread or mono to make your leader. I have a heavy mono leader that I'd be glad to send you. I think it would work great on big deerhair bugs. You can email me at milehimbr@yahoo.com if you are interested.

Joseph

[Hairstacker]

Joseph, THANKS!!!, for the additional explanation. I'm definitely interested in seeing that Word doc you mentioned, as well as the specs for your heavy mono leader for bass. I don't want to put you through the trouble of sending one if I can figure this out . Thanks again!!!

[Joseph]

Here you go Mike.

Materials List
4' x 2' 1/4" peg board
16" 1/2" dowel
4" 1/4" dowel
2 cable ties
cordless drill & 1/4 drill bit
large paper clips
screw hook
rubber bands
large sewing needle

Cut peg board into 3 8" x 4' lengths. Cable tie 2 lengths together in the middle. This will give you an 8' board which folds neatly in half for storage. I've never made a leader longer than 8', but you have the capability to do up to a 12' leader by adding in the third section.



Cut the 1/2 dowel into 8 2" pieces and the 1/4' dowel into 8 1/2' pieces. Drill a 1/4" x 1/4" hole centered into each of the 1/2" dowel pieces and insert the 1/4" dowel secured with a bit of wood glue into each. Originally I cut a wafer out of 1/2 dowel and drilled a 1/4 hole through it to secure the peg on the bottom side of the board. This is not necessary. The peg board has plenty of integrity to hold the peg without the locking wafer.


Spacing for the pegs is based on other people's formulas, I've not experimented with spacing. This is what was recommended.

Six Foot Leader

Left side
Top peg
26"
52"
72"

Right side
Top Peg
42"
61"
72"


8 Foot Leader

Left side
Top peg
35"
70"
96"

Right side
Top Peg
56"
82"
96"

Longer or shorter leader are made using proportional lengths as follows:

Any Length

Left side
Top peg
.364
.727
1.0

Right side
Top Peg
.590
.855
1.0

With your pegs positioned, you are now ready to make furled leaders.

Start by putting a loop in you material slip it over the first peg and trim off the tag. I use a perfection loop due to its small size. I use 6/0 unithread. I also heard of guys using 8/0 unithread. Your imagination and objective is the only limitation here.

Make the appropriate number of turns between the top and second pegs. The one I made for you was (I think) 6-4-3. The one I'm making in the pics is an 8-5-3. A little beefier, a little more powerful to turn over larger flies. In deciding the number of turns to make keep in mind the number of turns on the bottom peg. I've always used 3. You could do two, or even 1, but I haven't because I want to be sure it is strong enough not to break.

On your last top turn, go down and around the 3rd peg, come up past the second peg passing your thread between the two sides of the top section and then back down. This interlocks the sections, you are not wrapping your thread around the second peg. Make the chosen number of turns and repeat procedure down to the bottom peg. On your last turn, pull the thread snug and half hitch it where it passes through the second loop, trim the tag close.


You now have one leg done, repeat procedure on the right hand side of the board. For the 2nd leg, be sure your initial loop is either longer or shorter than the first so the knots don't end up in the same place creating a lump in your line.

Next you need to twist both legs in the same direction. For this you will use a cordless drill, 3 paper clips, 3 rubber bands and a screw hook. First cut your large paper clips with an angle cut to leave a hook on each end. File the cuts, removing any burrs so that each comes to a smooth point. Secure the screw hook into the drill chuck, connect the paper clip and the screw hook with a rubber band hook the bottom loop of the thread with the open end of the paper clip. Gently lift the thread off the pegs leaving the top loop on the top peg. Put moderate tension on the rubber band and begin turning. You want to turn until the thread has been reduced in length by 10%. Therefore, if you're making a 6' leader, make a mark 7" up the board and keep turning until the thread reaches that point. Slip the rubber band off your screw hook and back over the bottom peg. The rubber band is very important because it allows you to keep relatively even pressure on the thread throughout the process. Once you start turning you cannot release tension on the thread until your done with the reverse twist. Repeat twisting procedure on the right leg.

Next you need to bring the two legs together. Take another prepared paper clip, hook one end of the paper clip through the middle of a rubber band leaving two open ends of the rubber band. Hook the other end of the paper clip through the open loop of the right top section and pull it off the peg. Keeping tension on the thread, hook the left leg with the paper clip pulling it off the top peg and place both open loops of the rubber band over the top peg.

Go down to the left side of the bottom section . Insert the sewing needle between the thread and the paper clip pushing back against the thread to create a gap between the paper clip and the thread. Once created, with your free hand, grab the paper clip on the right leg, slipping it off the bottom loop and hook the left leg with the paper clip. Keeping tension on the thread, remove the paper clip from the left leg, bringing the two legs together on one clip. Reverse the drill, hook the screw hook through the rubber band, tension the rubber band and reverse twist the leader until it reaches the original length. Remove the rubber band from the paper clips. Attach a weight to the bottom end paper clip and hang the top end where the leader can hang freely. Allow it turn until it reaches its natural "relaxed state, and run your fingers down the line a few times to be sure all the twist is out.

At this point, before adding the end loops, I thoroughly water proof the entire leader with "Silicone Water-Guard" heavy duty water and stain repellant. It comes in an aerosol can, which I get from Rite - Aid.

Once the waterproofing has thoroughly dried, the final step is adding loops to both ends. Apply Green Mucillin (silicone based) to the first inch or so of the butt end. Cut approximately 10 inches of 14# mono and slip one end through the top loop of the leader, and the other end through the opposite side of the top loop. Remove the paper clip and pull the ends of the mono down to from a fairly small loop. With one strand of the mono make a nail knot and pull it up snug against the top end of the leader. With the free end of mono, (running underneath the 1st nail knot) size the loop down a little smaller than you want the final loop to be. Form another nail knot with this end and draw it up snugly and securely against the top nail knot. Trim tag ends. The mucillin is very important to this step. Without it, the mono tends to grab the thread leader when tightening the nail knot and is very difficult to draw up into a tight knot.

For the bottom loop I like to use 2x. Again, apply green Mucillin to the first inch or so of the leader. In order to create a gap to insert the mono I have to use the sewing needle inserted between the thread and the paper clip again in order to get enough room. Once the mono has been inserted through opposite sides of the bottom loop, remove paper clip, repeat back to back nail knots, apply green mucillin to the whole leader, and you're done. For making the nail knot, a one inch section of the tube which comes with a WD-40 can works great.

The most difficult and tedious part of making furled leaders is attaching the end loops. I think a perfection loop attached with a single nail knot through the end loop would probably be as effective as the double nail knot I use. I think the double nail knot makes a better looking finish, but is significantly more difficult.

Hope this helps Mike. Let me know if you are successful.

Joseph

[Jgoding]

Great topic..

I found this link online as well. Joseph, you did a great job explaining and posting the calculations. This site has basically the same stuff with a complete table for leader sizes etc.. I believe or you might have to follow the global flyfisher link (marty joergenson one...) I hope I spelled that right...here it is:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/freane...ing/furled.htm


Jeff

[Hairstacker]

Joseph, "hope this helps"? Wow, that is incredible!!! THANKS!!! I can see there is more to this than I realized. This is a project to go along with my in-process-pram project, ha. Thank you very much, I will definitely be studying your instructions. (Hairstacker starts to wonder where his Home Depot card is .... )

[Joseph]

This pretty much outlines the process. Thanks to Jeff for posting it. I had seen it before but had forgotten about it.

[Hairstacker]

Joseph, thanks(!!!), the picture really helps. Without the picture, I'm not sure I would have figured out that peg 4 serves merely as a corner and that you don't do loops around it. Thanks again!!!

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

Joe,

I have an entire new respect for your typing ability.

Great info..................thanks for sharing.

[Joseph]

Bill - My typing days are over. That is all cut and paste. After 2 surgeries on my hands to get rid of numbness this is the most typing you'll see out of me.