Sage "Z-Axis" fly rods at close out prices right now

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

We have one of the new but discontinued Sage Z-Axis fly rods left.

This is a chance to buy a new top end Sage fly rod at a great price.

It is in a new in the factory tube with cloth sack and lifetime warranty.

GFL 1090-4 = 9' #10 - 4pc

Last one.....50% off for message board folks.

Was $715 now $357.50


These are killer rods.......come in or call us on our USA toll free phone.

1-800-400-0359

We are open 7 days a week and can ship them anywhere in the USA.

.

[JAWallace]

These are all over ebay now and Bill's price is very favorable. I have a 690-4 Z-Axis and it is one sweet rod. I'm thinking about picking up another from him.

[luckydude]

590-4 ordered, thanks Bill.

[Terry Imai]

I have a few Z-Axis rods and I have a hard time believing how Sage can improve that rod (haven't casted the new one) but I would advise LuckyDude to not use the Rio Grand or Gold for your ordered 5# in the 9'. IMO, the best line to use on that rod is the Rio Trout LT weight forward for a six weight. I just got off Lewiston yesterday fishing for snotty trout sipping midges. I was using a Rio indicator line (very heavy front end to turnover indicators) when the midge emerger hatch started up. I tried a few cast with the indicator line four feet ahead of the fish but the water disturbance from that line (and most likely with the Gold and Grand) made the fish scatter like quail. I switched over to my Rio Trout LT (it's built like a double taper for a nice presentation) and could make nice presentation. The six weight line will properly load your new rod.

Good luck with your purchase...

[luckydude]

Bummer, I wish I had known that, I would have gotten a 4wt and run 5wt line in it. I did ask but the shop didn't have a 4wt.

I rarely get into those 24" browns (like never so far) so I mostly fish 4wt, more pleasant to cast, more fun when you get a fish on.

If it were you, would you go 4wt? I already have a St Croix Legend Ultra in 8'6" 4wt, I know it's not as nice as the Z-axis but it's a pretty decent rod. I was looking for something I could use when lake fishing, that would punch it a little further. But not a 6wt.

[Terry Imai]

My first graphite rod was a 5# loaded with a WF 6# and I caught a ton of fish with that setup. Then I heard the murmurs of "go lighter" and bought a few 3 and 4# rods to be used everywhere for trout fishing. After several years of attempting to use these 3 and 4# for all of my trout fishing and almost throwing out my arm with trying to cast a few extra feet, a light bulb finally went off that help get me onto the right track. Don't get too hooked into what weight of rod you're going to fish with because you get restricted very quickly. If I had only one rod to do all of my trout fishing, I would use a moderately fast action 5# with a 6# WF. HOWEVER, since I don't fish with one rod; I attempt to match my rod to the fishing conditions. When fishing stillwater, I almost always use a 6# floater and carry a 7# (with a sinking or slime line) due to distance is critical along windy conditions. Most stillwaters are not too clear and you can fish using 4x tippets. Most river and large streams can be used with a 5# (you can still use a 6# rod) with a 6# WF (like Rio Trout LT, Grand or Gold) where I'm tossing multi nymphs with shot and a possible indicator (yep, I do use a bobber at times...). I also carry a slower action 4# setup for dry fly fishing with either a double taper or that Rio Trout LT (in the WF....I'm really sold on that line).

The main thing I'm trying to say is don't get locked into saying "I only fish a four weight" because it doesn't hurt to carry a few extra "arrows" in your quiver...

Good luck on your new purchase...

[Tony Buzolich]

A couple of years ago we were fly fishing for Mako's out of San Diego with Dave Trimble using 12w. and 14w. rods. During a slack period Dave got out a 5 weight and said let's catch some mackeral for more bait. After having some fun doing this a blue shark came in and took the fly on the 5w. I was using. This turned out to be GREAT fun and I did get it in. Thankfully it was only a small blue.

My point is, I was quite suprised with what you can do with a small rod. I don't think I'd target sharks with a 5 weight, but it can be done.
TONY

[JAWallace]

Agree with using the 6 wt. on most stillwaters, especially if you're targeting 18"+ trout and if the conditions can get windy (like Crowley). Just returned from a High Sierra trip and used a 4 wt. and could have used my 1 wt. given the size and fight of the fish and thankfully no wind. At least a newbie learned how to fly fish and got a few to hand. He was thrilled, and I was dreaming of McGee Bay.

[luckydude]

Got my 590-4 today.

First impressions, not so much. The loops were way too big, WTF?

I took out my old Sage RPL - maybe 20 years old - liked it better.

Or did I?

First plus for the Z-Axis, much lighter swing weight. Casting it feels like I'm casting a 4wt compared to the old sage or a modern St Croix.

Second plus, I learned the rod. Holy crap, you just barely flick it and it loads up and casts a nice tight loop. I had to do it over and over to believe it wasn't a fluke.

My problem was that I was used to having to put a ton of effort into the cast - do that with the Z-axis and you'll make big loops. Ease off. Flick. Nice tight loops.

I like this rod, it's definitely an upgrade from the old RPL sage. I still need to learn how to cast it far. More than 50 or 60 feet and I was back to making the big loops, so I'm doing it wrong. I need some lessons. But the rod is better than me.

Thanks to Bill's fly shop, having fun.

[Terry Imai]

It's amazing how someone can examine your cast over the internet without even seeing it!!! You'll be really amazed when I perform open heart surgery with my high speed connection.

This is your mantra: "Tight loops means I'm doing some correct, big loops means I'm doing some wrong"

You indicated that when you had some fly line extended out a bit, you were throwing some nice loops. To make a Wild Ass Guess, I would bet that you had probably casting around 25-35' of fly line. Am I correct? If so, that means you were properly loading your rod with minimal effort and controlling your casting stroke (think between 10:00-2:00). When you decided to add a few more fly line in the air to increase your distance and all of sudden, your casts go all to hell with a loop so wide that a truck could go through it.

Every rod (and caster) has a maximum "load point" of how much line that it can support in the air along with maintaining loop control. When you added that extra 5-10', your rod (or you) are not capable of maintaining that much line and your cast got haywire. Bring back that excess line to your previous sweet spot as your "maximum" point of your fly line that you can make your final false cast point. Many current fly lines (Rio) mark the first 30' with one color and has a color change after that point. You can use a permanent ink Sharpie to mark your "sweet spot".

Remember, you had an different thread where we go into waterhauls and double hauls?? Those are some of the tricks you need to learn to maximize your casting distance.