SHig's Pram Build Thread

[SHigSpeed]

I have a Redwood Welding 8' drifter (really 7' 7") and after a TPL and a couple of Valcos, it's the best I've had.

Paul

Hey Paul,

The Valco is pretty much a short Jonboat right? Flat length and width with a pickup in the front?

How did this boat handle differently from the MH? Is it relatively narrow? Was standing an issue in it?

Thanks!

_SHig

[pgw]

Hey Paul,

The Valco is pretty much a short Jonboat right? Flat length and width with a pickup in the front?

How did this boat handle differently from the MH? Is it relatively narrow? Was standing an issue in it?

Thanks!

_SHig

I had a 10' (that was stolen) and a 12' Valco jonboat...the primary use was for duck hunting in salt ponds around SF Bay and fishing on Fall River. The Valcos did well in those applications but were heavy (100+ for the 10' and 130 for the 12'). The bottom width of these guys, 44 inches or so, made them stable for casting and shooting...a 33# thrust minKota electric moter would almost get the 10' version up on step but they were pigs to row and acted like big sails in the wind.

Nothing but good with the TPL except that the 8' model I had only provided about 2" of freeboard with me, motor, gear...it found a home when I went to the larger 10" Valco.

My Redwood Welding drifter provides greater freeboard than the TPL, is slightly narrower than both the TPL and the Valcos, and does have the tapered bow (like an El Toro) but there's not angles to the bottom like the El Torro, just the rocker. It rows like a racing shell and the 33# MinKota has more thrust (and speed) than the boat needs.

When I fish in the drifter, I have my 14# anchor on an extended mount on the bow (to my back) and the second, 12# anchor on a cam-cleat mounted on a corner of the stern. I've never had an issue with the stern dipping down when landing fish (Lakes, tidal area on coastal rivers, or flowing rivers (Yuba, Russian, Trinity) or pulling the anchor...bow down first and up last if I use both...usually on lakes. I attach an empty plastic bleach bottle to the end of the bow anchor line when I fish the coastal rivers for steelhead/salmon and rather than pull the anchor to follow a fish downsteam to fight it, I slip the line, and after the fight, return to the floating bottle, re-secure the anchor line. and start over...pram tactics 101.

Paul

[SHigSpeed]

I had a 10' (that was stolen) and a 12' Valco jonboat...the primary use was for duck hunting in salt ponds around SF Bay and fishing on Fall River. The Valcos did well in those applications but were heavy (100+ for the 10' and 130 for the 12'). The bottom width of these guys, 44 inches or so, made them stable for casting and shooting...a 33# thrust minKota electric moter would almost get the 10' version up on step but they were pigs to row and acted like big sails in the wind.

Nothing but good with the TPL except that the 8' model I had only provided about 2" of freeboard with me, motor, gear...it found a home when I went to the larger 10" Valco.

My Redwood Welding drifter provides greater freeboard than the TPL, is slightly narrower than both the TPL and the Valcos, and does have the tapered bow (like an El Toro) but there's not angles to the bottom like the El Torro, just the rocker. It rows like a racing shell and the 33# MinKota has more thrust (and speed) than the boat needs.

When I fish in the drifter, I have my 14# anchor on an extended mount on the bow (to my back) and the second, 12# anchor on a cam-cleat mounted on a corner of the stern. I've never had an issue with the stern dipping down when landing fish (Lakes, tidal area on coastal rivers, or flowing rivers (Yuba, Russian, Trinity) or pulling the anchor...bow down first and up last if I use both...usually on lakes. I attach an empty plastic bleach bottle to the end of the bow anchor line when I fish the coastal rivers for steelhead/salmon and rather than pull the anchor to follow a fish downsteam to fight it, I slip the line, and after the fight, return to the floating bottle, re-secure the anchor line. and start over...pram tactics 101.

Paul

Ouch! 100# for a 10' aluminum. Probably bulletproof though. Good to know that 44" of width will do the job. I think my drawings so far have about that or a skosh more...

2" of freeboard on the TPL!? You must tote a lot of stuff. I'm a bit surprised that the Redwood gives you more freeboard than the TPL. No issues with the handle cutouts acting as swamping faucets huh? I guess the anchor sequence is key to safety there. I do like the idea of the throwaway front anchor. Can't have a "captured" pulley to make that play - have to remember this point... How do you control the boat chasing fish?!

Great insights, again.

_SHig

[michaeln]

Can't have a "captured" pulley to make that play

Use the Pocket Puller davits. They allow you to insert the line through the side, and they work great. I had them front and rear on my Hopper II.

[pgw]

How do you control the boat chasing fish?!_SHig

Short Answer: follow the fish

Long answer (Pram Tactics 101): Regardless of the current in the tidal situation, the area is usually "fairly" wide open...I already have the stern facing downstream (the bow anchor is what was holding the boat in the current) and as the fish runs, pressure against the fish (moving the rod from side to side) usually results in the fish pulling away from the direction of the rod...gather line back & land the fish and use the stern anchor if necessary (not a good option since dropping the stern anchor can create interesting activity if your rod pressure can't keep the fish away from the anchor line)...self preservation is a key factor, there may be a time that you have to put the rod in a holder, hope the fish stays connected, and pull on the oars to set the boat's drift to miss something before you finish the fight.

Paul

ps-in most tidal situations, quite a few boats are in the line-up, slipping the anchor to move downstream prevents your fish from snagging the other fishermans' lines or screwing up their drifts.

[Phil Synhorst]

Watching you fish was why I asked about standing on the seat in the first place! I'm drawing a 12" wide bench for now but wider would make for a more rigid boat at a minuscule increase in weight.

Any thoughts on this?

_SHig

Scott, I stand on my seat without any stability problems. However, I do wish it was a few inches wider. I'll measure it tomorrow, and let you know it's width.

I'm thinking of making a removable deck; span from seat to stern. I think there is a definite advantage in that extra foot of elevation.

[SHigSpeed]

Scott, I stand on my seat without any stability problems. However, I do wish it was a few inches wider. I'll measure it tomorrow, and let you know it's width.

I'm thinking of making a removable deck; span from seat to stern. I think there is a definite advantage in that extra foot of elevation.

Cool, thanks! What kind of boat do you have?

_SHig

[Phil Synhorst]

It's an Outback, 10ft., Kevlar/Glass hull. The bow is shaped more like a Tri-hull boat, not like the traditional prams.

[pgw]

It's an Outback, 10ft., Kevlar/Glass hull. The bow is shaped more like a Tri-hull boat, not like the traditional prams.

The Outback boats have the same Tri-hull design as the old TPL...I think Brian (Outback) was using the same mold (may have obtained it from TPL in 198.

Paul

[Hibbygibi]

Was your 10' Valco a three bench model or two? I have a 2 bench that weighs all of 80lbs and is perfect for the Fall and small lakes. Easy for one man to handle.

The Valcos did well in those applications but were heavy (100+ for the 10' and 130 for the 12'). The bottom width of these guys, 44 inches or so, made them stable for casting and shooting...a 33# thrust minKota electric moter would almost get the 10' version up on step but they were pigs to row and acted like big sails in the wind.
Paul