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Thread: Question about a rod

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Sonoma/Lake Counties
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    looks like a sweet rod - were you using a skagit method of casting or touch and go casts?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Citrus Heights, CA
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    Skagit. Still a newb so keepin' it simple.

    _SHig

  3. #13
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    Jan 2009
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    Fair Oaks
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    Your finishing looks great! With my eyes I'm lucky to get a straight line in. My rods probably look like garbage to anybody else but I can't tell much of a difference. BTW, if you are looking for some custom inserts or cork grips, let me know I have a friend who turns them.
    Itchin' for a fishin'

  4. #14
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by ted1 View Post
    Your finishing looks great! With my eyes I'm lucky to get a straight line in. My rods probably look like garbage to anybody else but I can't tell much of a difference. BTW, if you are looking for some custom inserts or cork grips, let me know I have a friend who turns them.
    Thanks! Of course when you fish the rod less than 12 cold hours after you mix the Flex Coat, it may not matter!

    I may hit you up about your friend. Hard to find good cork these days, and when you do, bend over!!

    _SHig

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sonoma
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    364

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    Quote Originally Posted by SHigSpeed View Post
    BTW, I just finished up my 1087 Rainshadow switch last night and took it down to the Yuba still tacky:




    Didn't catch any fish, but I like it a lot. Still may need to tweak the line and any input would be gladly accepted! I've already gotten some good info via PM.

    The main line I was using was the body of a Windcutter 10/11 (I think) without the tip 2. Basically a 21" head at 360 grains plus a 15' 115 grain sinktip. I was swinging buggers and leeches using this setup and it felt pretty good actually. I may have even seen a nice tight loop or two, and snagged brush from the opposite bank so I was hammering casts like a rockstar! (Okay, maybe not...)

    When I went later to an intermediate tip, same grain and length, I started having more problems. Not sure if I was tending to rip out my anchor or if I was getting tired. Probably just that I need more practice.

    Regardless, I did have some issues with hooking myself including once in the nose with a wicked wraparound stick. Barbless is the law, and your friend!

    BTW, the rod was built using Batson/Forecast components though instead of using their, eh, unique bactrian camel foregrip I used their preformed full wells grip and added 2-1/2" to it in the middle and blended it in. I think I may do some more sanding to bring the diameter down a bit in the front half of the foregrip. The foregrip came in at just a hair under 10", and if I were to do it again I may add another 1/2" to 1". I used their standard switch rear grip though.

    _SHig

    So, if you don't mind me asking, what do you have in that rod right now?
    Often wrong, seldom in doubt!

  6. #16
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    Sep 2008
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    Citrus Heights, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fats View Post
    So, if you don't mind me asking, what do you have in that rod right now?
    Let's just say a bit of change less than half of what a new Deer Creek or Beulah would cost.

    _SHig

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    43

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    SHig, Well done, you have built a very nice rod. I would be happy to develope a line recipe for that rod, similar to the process I do for Meiser. There is a limit to how much of a fly you can throw with your rod because of it's power, 5 wt single, 3 wt spey, but with some new lines that I am developing for Meiser, HighWater Short, we can kick your flies up a lot. My philosphy is, you pick the fly, the fly chooses the front taper, the front taper chooses the driver, the driver picks the rod. Call me, 541-840-2594, steve

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Berkeley CA
    Posts
    164

    Default batson 1086

    Quote Originally Posted by SPG View Post
    Rick J, I like what you have done with the Fisher and you are right about the 1085 being a great rod for the Klamath. Gary Anderson and I have written a line recipe for this rod, not that it should not be tweaked for a specific individual, but as a base recipe from ACR Scandi Heads, it should be 26 feet and 260 grains, with a belly dia of .082 and a front taper of .022 per foot. On a speed scale of 1-10, the 1085 is a 5.7, slightly faster than med. If you cast more than 260 grains at 26 feet you prefer to slow the rod down, because you like a slower stroke, which is how the great casters use lines to tune them to a specific rod. Some of the best casters I build rods for have a slow stroke, under 5. The ultimate casting outfit will occur when your natural casting acceleration is matched to a rod speed and a line speed. The silver bullet occures when the caster, the rod, and the line all come together. steve
    Steve. I have a rainshadow 1086 and would love to buy a multi-tip line for it, including a foating tip. I am a newbie to switch/spey casting so I don't completely follow the line discussions here, but I believe you mentioned in a post a few months back that you and gary had designed such a line. I emailed gary via his website a while ago but havent heard back. Can you steer me in the right direction?

    Thanks

    Jim Davenport

  9. #19
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    Jan 2006
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    43

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    Jim, Call me and we can discuss the different ways to design your line system. steve 541-840-2594

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    401

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    Sweet SHig! I'm glad you were able to finish it.

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