Reels which is better and why

[garypullings]

Ok here is my delima. I just bought the reddington CRP 8wt rod. I need a new reel for it. I have been looking and can't figure out which is better.

I have seen ross, Galvan, Orvis. Which is better and why. I am not to familiar with the whole disc vs cork drag system so any help is what makes me spend my money to the right cause.

[Hairstacker]

Gary, how much do you want to spend and what all will you be fishing for with it?

[garypullings]

Gary, how much do you want to spend and what all will you be fishing for with it?

Start talking and I can decide what to spend.

fishing for bass, striper, steelhead ect.

price range is i don't know since i don't know much on these reels.

[WT]

I have an orvis batten kill... I really like it and for the price I think it is one of the best deals on the market... however if price was not a factor for me I would probably look at a ross ( which actually are the about the same price wise as an orvis) and Galvan.

I will also say that I have heard Ross mades a very good reel as well... but I have never actually used one.

My reason why I like the Orvis is that I have found it to have a nice drag system, that is easy to use. I just mine on a 5 wt, and it has helped me land 10 pound trout and very little time

[TaylerW]

well for bass you dont really need top strong of a drag, but once you get into the realm of stripers and steelhead, ur going to need a smooth drag with some balls on it. ross and galvan both make great reels. i have a torque, ob, and rush from galvan, and from ross a couple cimmarons and 2 momentums and i actually prefer the galvans for bass and light steelhead, but once im doin the bigger stuff i stick with my momentums. great flawless drag!!
hope this helps!!

[Bryan Morgan]

Check out Loop.com. A liitle tougher to find, but I think you would be impressed.

[SHigSpeed]

Coming from a newbie:

I've never really understood the uber-expensive fly reel thing.

I come from a hardware background, and you'd pay less than $200 for a REALLY nice baitcasting reel with a dozen precision machined parts, half a dozen or more stainless steel ball bearings, high quality drag mechanisms, anodized aluminum frames, mechanical and magnetic brakes, level winds, flippin' switches, SiC line guides - the works.

Now to pay twice that for a fly reel with a dozen parts TOTAL? I don't get it.

I own an Okuma Cascade graphite disk drag reel, costs $30. Spools are $15. I have 3 spools for that. I own an Echo graphite disk drag reel. Came with a Craigslist TFO combo.

Both reels hold line, have very smooth drags, are very light, and I don't worry about dinging the finish.

Sure they're not pieces of art, jewels that hold line, tactile masterpieces, but they do the job.

Granted, I'm not fighting tarpon in the brine or BC steelhead, so perhaps the rigors of those pursuits may require a bit more refinement or robustness from a reel. But for my 5 wt, for me, anything more is money better spent on line, flies, waders, etc...

That said, if I had ready cash, I'd pony up for the pretty things and the ones that go "click" just so...

Just my newbie viewpoint.

_SHig

[WT]

Coming from a newbie:

I've never really understood the uber-expensive fly reel thing.

I come from a hardware background, and you'd pay less than $200 for a REALLY nice baitcasting reel with a dozen precision machined parts, half a dozen or more stainless steel ball bearings, high quality drag mechanisms, anodized aluminum frames, mechanical and magnetic brakes, level winds, flippin' switches, SiC line guides - the works.

Now to pay twice that for a fly reel with a dozen parts TOTAL? I don't get it.

I_SHig

Just like flies I think some of this stuff if out there to catch fisherman and not fish...

[dtp916]

Ross and Galvan are both great reels. I prefer Ross Reels because I have never had any problems with mine. They fish well, the drags are smooth - really smooth, and they look good. I could get into all the technical machining and assembly but I don't think you really need that information. Both are made in the USA......this means something to a lot of people.

Ross dropped some really sweet reels for 2009, notably the Vexsis and Momentum LT. I would take those over a Galvan Torque, OB, or Rush any day.

I don't mess with Orvis, but I can tell you they are the number 1 selling reel at Kiene's shop as Bill has said so numerous times on here.

Your problem is that you need a seriously smooth drag for steelies. It really sucks when you see a 10 lb steelie tail walk across the surface and then snap your tippet because the reel drag jammed or froze.....My bass and striper fishing adventures have led me to believe that a reel just holds you shooting head or magnum taper - I have never used my drag for either. You just strip the line in. Wouldn't hurt to have a drag if you got one maybe 20 lbs+ thats actually gets on the reel, but for the most part its tug-o-war.

Ill tell you Scientific Anglers makes a very nice true large arbor reel that might be a good compromise of the two.....check them out:

[dtp916]

Coming from a newbie:

I've never really understood the uber-expensive fly reel thing.

I come from a hardware background, and you'd pay less than $200 for a REALLY nice baitcasting reel with a dozen precision machined parts, half a dozen or more stainless steel ball bearings, high quality drag mechanisms, anodized aluminum frames, mechanical and magnetic brakes, level winds, flippin' switches, SiC line guides - the works.

Now to pay twice that for a fly reel with a dozen parts TOTAL? I don't get it.

I own an Okuma Cascade graphite disk drag reel, costs $30. Spools are $15. I have 3 spools for that. I own an Echo graphite disk drag reel. Came with a Craigslist TFO combo.

Both reels hold line, have very smooth drags, are very light, and I don't worry about dinging the finish.

Sure they're not pieces of art, jewels that hold line, tactile masterpieces, but they do the job.

Granted, I'm not fighting tarpon in the brine or BC steelhead, so perhaps the rigors of those pursuits may require a bit more refinement or robustness from a reel. But for my 5 wt, for me, anything more is money better spent on line, flies, waders, etc...

That said, if I had ready cash, I'd pony up for the pretty things and the ones that go "click" just so...

Just my newbie viewpoint.

_SHig

Okuma is made overseas, so the costs are considerably less.

Take into consideration:

1. The factory where the company makes the reels and their parts
2. Cost of materials needed to create a grade A certified fully-machined aircraft aluminum fly reel - aluminum, screws, good cork (compare a Sage grip to a Winston grip and you'll see how quality is spelled), and the rest of all the intricate parts. Not to mention packaging
3. The wages to pay the people to design the reels, machine the reels on a CAD or CAM platform, assemble the reels, tests the reels, package the reels, load the truck or LTL shipper
4. Cost of running the factory: lighting, a/c or heating, lease/tax, etc
5. Freight/fuel charges sending reels all over the country or better yet, world
6. Wages to representatives

That said, you get what you pay for. Buy crap, you will buy it twice, or three times. Do you really need a Tibor or an Abel? You tell me - there are seasoned guides all over the world that depend on Tibor and Abel to get the job done; on massive tarpon, raging permit, lightening fast bones, and dime bright steelhead and salmon.

Many of those guys won't even fish anything else. I'd be worried about my reel failing too if I had a freakin' wahoo swimming 80 mph in the bottomless ocean. But I would feel a lot better with a high end reel made for this type of abuse. The Ross Momentum and Momentum LT will take care of those hardcore saltwater fish.

Why does a fly reel cost more than a "really good" bait caster reel? Who cares - bait casting is for worm flingers!