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Is it a common problem that using loop to loop connections causes problems with the knot getting stuck on the eyelets?
If I have 30-40ft of line out to keep the knot outside the tip, I'll have very little fun because I'll spend the day untangling line at my feet. Thanks Chris
Unless you need to change heads, splice the head on to the running line with 50lb braided Dacron. It will still "click" but much smoother than loop to loop.
Purchase a stripping bucket and put some water in it. Two of the more popular are Tony Buzolich's PVC bucket and the foam version at Sea Level. This will get the line off your feet.
Assuming your running line is mono the connection loop is usually some form of knot involving several winds around itself and then finishing with a tag end jutting out and what tends to stick and rattle in your guides. Same happens when using a nail knot on large diameter mono. You can help this a bit by using some Plio-Bond on the knots. There're some knots that have a narrower profile when tied into mono but, generally, mono loop connector knots are not meant to be drawn into the tip-tip guide of your rod while casting.
Loomis1 gave you a good suggestion (splice the two lines together) if you don't intend to change heads while fishing. Otherwise, try switching to a switching to running lines that're constructed of braided or mono cores. A loop can be made for the ends of running lines or and/or shooting heads using 35# or 50# Gudebrod, braided nylon material. Follow the link for a tutorial on how to create loop connectors:
http://www.danblanton.com/blog/getting-looped/
These loops can be made very large to allow for quick head changes, are less intrusive and will rattle a bit in the guides but will not stick.
Hope this helps....
Can you make your loops smaller and tighter? I run loop to loop on everything. I try not to use braided loops for the reason you listed. I just nail knot on some 20 pound mono at the end of my running line.
Thanks for the advise. The products are from Irideus, in southern Ca. I don't know the inner makeup of the lines but the loops are welded in. I was kind of wanting to test the head out to see if it worked for me or if I needed it shortened. Maybe make a fool of my attempts on the water too, but I ran into this issue. I don't know if a WF line with a shooting head is correct or if the running line should be flat. The skaget with a sink tip was going to be used on the AR for steelies. Cheers Chris
I only run shooting heads with a running line, the running line is super thin and prevents hang ups when going loop to loop. At least that is how it works for me.
Are your using an actual floating line and just adding on a shooting head to it?
yes, this set up is wf8f.