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View Full Version : Why Christmas Island should be on your bucket list! by Jay T



Bill Kiene semi-retired
06-02-2018, 07:52 AM
Why Christmas Island should be on your bucket list!

Christmas Island (Kirabati) is located near the equator, a three hour 737 jet ride south of Hawaii on Fiji air (1,000.00 US)
We went with a group of 16 people from a Canadian outfitter (Michael & Young Fly Shop) The cost was 2750.00 plus 500.00 or so in tips and your bar tab. This place is a 10 with respect to bonefishing. You can also stalk triggerfish, Giant Trevally and Milkfish. Offshore trolling with large flies and heavy rods is also offered. Our guys caught 3 sixty pound yellowfin tuna although one was chopped in half by a shark!

There is a Fiji jet that leaves on a Tues from Honolulu and returns the following Tues, so it’s 6 full days of Fishing. We stayed at The Villages, a large complex with 16 rooms and 4-5 boats. The boats are outriggers with a 70HP engine on them, They are covered as the sun is brutal this far south. Gloves and full clothing are a must, as well as heavy sunscreen and zinc oxide cream. Breakfast is served at 5:30AM and the boats leave at 6:30AM, you make your own lunch at breakfast and tell the servers what kind of drinks and snacks you’d like to be placed in the cooler, 4 bottles of water are packed for each fly guy/gal also.

The locals are friendly and are taught English in school but speak to each other in Gilbertese. They are fairly shy and do not want to offend the guests in any way. Upon arrival the matriarch gave a speech welcoming us and the staff sang a few songs of welcome. Later in the week there was a dinner on the beach with Karaoke and a roast pig. The farewell dinner featured local songs and the gals on staff danced to the music with skirts adorned in green leaves.

Christams island is a very large lagoon with many named flats and pancake flats (totally surrounded by blue water) The pancake flats are generally fished at lower tides and can be really productive. The head guide plans the guides and areas you will fish with based on your quarry preference. The guides rotate each day, they have amazing eyesight which is especially handy when there is low light, clouds or choppy or glare conditions. A lot of cast were extremely short with fish chasing the flyline well into your guides. It takes 30-45 minutes from the lodge to your first flat.

The Bonefishing here can be world class, avg fish are in the 2-3lb range with some 5-8lbers also being caught. My better day had over 25 bones landed, many more spooked or lost to (constant) operator error :) We had some slow days based on high winds and cooler flats temps but most people did well and we had some newbies along who had a great time.

Trigger fish are abundant and really easy to spot tailing. They are darker and easy to sneak up on, however they will spook with the wrong cast and when hooked like to hide under a coral rock and employ their locking trigger fin so that you cannot get them out. They like a brighter fly, a short strip at first and just keep a tight line and hope he tails and eats your flies, Most times they spook but another shot will appear shortly. Giant Trevally were around but are spooky and it’s tough to get off a shot at them since you have to switch rods with the guide (10 or 12 wt) and hurry a cast before they disappear. my roommate managed a 15 lber and myself a baby but the 30+ pound fish were tough. Smaller milkfish roam the flats in shcools and are easily mistaken for bonefish, they swim higher in the water column and are greener in appearance however.

Usually sashimi is served at Happy Hour and dinner is filling with a lot of lobster (usually overcooked) and tuna and other local fare. At night everyone meets in the large tiki like hut for drinks and to recount the days events. I was tying flies at night trying to catch up. I used long Mantis shrimp in tan with rubber legs and Christmas island specials in pink and/or gold with a tan wing. It’s important to have two different weights of these CIS in size #6 mostly.

We tried for Milkfish one morning on the outside (ocean). Schools of 20-40 lb Milkfish are located and cast to from the boat. 2-3 anglers can cast at one time only however. We tried various algae fly patterns and I had a minor 2 second hook up but it can be maddening watching these big fish cruising around on top with their mouths open inhaling plankton.

I also had one of the guides show us how to lure large Mantis shrimp out of their holes in the sand with cut bait on a piece of mono, we ate them, yum.

This trip consists of mostly wading sandy flats. Most of them are really easy, one guide mentioned that some of the older clientele trolled flies for Trevally in the afternoons however. The guides will walk as slow or fast as you can handle. You can opt to fish a flat with a buddy and his/her guide, I tried this later in the week as it can get a bit lonely with just just you and the guide and not much conversation.

A friend had been on this trip 4-5 times previously and said the fishing was maybe a 5 out of 10 stars. With more sun and less wind we could have done better but that’s fishing folks,


all the best,
Jay T

Baja Fly Fisher
06-02-2018, 08:30 AM
I've been there a number of times. The first time I went was in the late 80's or early 90's. That's when the Captain Cook was the only lodge. Things have developed since then. I've stayed at the Villages once, most of the time I'm at Crystal Beach. Now from what I understand most of the guides, are now at a different lodge. I think it's called Sunset lodge, i know some one has been there. Peter (Bita) is the head guide along with TJ, Mike, Michael, etc... Most of the names slip my mind.

The Villages usually work one on one. Others have two people per guide. I prefer to walk by myself so I can learn how to spot the bones and not rely on the guide, it's tough but can be done. Yes the wind blows every day, probably 365 days a year. The last trip, I was throwing a 7wt using a RIO Flats Pro Line. I was casting parallel to the water and getting a 25' cast. Most the bones are usually within that range.

One thing, I would definitely purchase travel insurance both travel and medical evac. You never know when Fiji Airline will cancel the flight. I've seen it happen 3 times already. I know a group who got stuck in Hawaii and had to return home due to Fiji cancelling the flight. My last trip, we were delay due to plane problems in Christmas Island. We eventually got there but had everyone at the Fiji counter nervous. If you're looking for 5 star accommodations and meals, this is not the place to go. If you're looking to do some fly fishing, then it's OK. I think one of the main things about Christmas Island is that it's seeing to many fishermen on the flats, and keeping the bones in deeper waters. You see a lot of reports stating that it seemed like the bone fishing was a little slower than normal. What's normal?

I would put CI on your bucket list before it's too late. What I understand is CI is sinking or the global warming is raising the ocean water levels to where the island will be flooded over.

Bill Kiene semi-retired
06-02-2018, 09:58 AM
When I was in college in the 1960s we were taught that islands were created by volcanic actions raising from the sea floor.

After an island was formed it would actually start slowly sinking or washing away as a natural event over time.

I think it is called erosion.

Christmas Island is only a few feet above sea level.



In the 1980s and 1990s I went there 13 times with groups from the shop and Marilyn went 3 times with me.

We both have a deep emotional contact with the island and the people.

Wading on the limitless light colored flats is magic.

dynaflow
06-02-2018, 10:21 PM
Nice report Jay T....btw Christmas Island is Kiritimati (not Kirabati) in the Republic of Kiribati.The lagoon has 43 named flats and the best map I've seen is Polau's original map (I think it's the one at the Villages).Kiritimati is the largest coral atoll in the world at around 150 square miles with a similar sized lagoon and it will be some time yet before the island is uninhabitable due to rising sea water.Nonetheless it will happen and Australia is prepared to take our Western Pacific neighbours as climate change refugees.The social dislocation will be enormous as their society is a relatively isolated and close knit one.Like Bill and many other anglers who have visited the island I have a deep and abiding love for the place and it's people.I'll be enjoying my 13th.fortnight there over a 12 year period next month with a few mates for some full moon fun.

Bill Kiene semi-retired
06-03-2018, 07:17 AM
"Full Moon Fred" was one of our locals who went every year to Christmas Island in week with a full moon.

In his late 80s Fred Bertero passed away recently. He was a developer and fished and hunted all over the world.

We went on a full moon week a few times too where the bigger Bonefish get into larger schools over on Paris Flats to spawn.

They were in large schools swimming off the bottom which was kind of weird to me.

The only thing I did not like about it was sharks and giant Trevally would chase down and eat our Bonefish.

It might be the winter months and the 2 or 3 days right after the full moon that this happens.

____________________________________________

Years ago there was a man who came by himself to Christmas Island for two weeks.

I think he had a business where he refurbished Rolls Royce cars on the east coast?

He would stay at the hotel and rent a little pickup for two weeks.

He brought along a Zodiac with a small outboard motor.

He fished one week with Neep tides for Bonefish and the second week with Spring tides for Giant Trevally.

He would come in after dark as we were finishing up dinner.

I would never consider myself in that league of "Commando" fly fishers.

.

Darian
06-03-2018, 02:54 PM
Just a quick addition to dynaflows' post. Thankfully for the Islanders, Australia may be a viable alternative solution for moving due to sea level rise. As I recall, the government of Kiribati had worked out an agreement with the government of Fiji to buy land there to migrate to when the islands become uninhabitable. Forward thinkers out there.

Even tho Christmas Isl. is very remote, it's rapidly being developed. Between my two visits to the island (one & one half years) a power generating station was constructed and related infrastructure is being installed around the more densely populated areas. Also, I noticed an internet provider had started an office in the township, London. There're a couple of new lodges and many, if not all, have warm or hot water for showers, etc., now. So, With all of that attention, investment and increased tourism, happening there should be great fishing for some time to come. Guess I won't have to carry a satellite phone, now....

My fishing partner and I both enjoy the people and the island and look forward to many trips there in the future.

dynaflow
06-04-2018, 03:45 AM
Thanks Darian,what's more disturbing is that there have been recent rumours about moving the administrative capital of Kiribati from overcrowded Tarawa to Christmas Island,but to be honest this is more like "island talk" as they say...I mean it would be cost prohibitive infrastructure-wise,and then there's the major issue of a potable water supply,as nothing short of a huge desalination plant would satisfy demand.It's one thing to upgrade Cassidy International Airport,but quite another to back it up to accommodate any kind of substantial increase in tourism,and the fact remains that it's Fly fishermen and women who keep the island's economy going.I firmly believe the halcyon days are behind us Bill Keine.One of my lasting memories is the sight of a cloud of up to 1500 Bonefish gliding past Paris 1 flat during the July/August full moon spawning run.

Bill Kiene semi-retired
06-04-2018, 06:22 AM
Hopefully it will continue to be the magical place that my wife, brother, late father and many good friends have in their memory.

Baja Fly Fisher
06-04-2018, 09:26 AM
Besides the new airport, now they are going to have power. When we were there in November of last year, they were setting all the poles and running the wires. Looks like they are going to use oil to run the plant.

ifsteve
06-11-2018, 07:25 AM
A buddy of mine fished there in January. Fishing was pretty decent but the food was almost nonexistant. Apparently there were four crates of food in Hawaii for the Fiji flight. But the flight was overloaded weight wise so they left 3 of the 4 boxes in Hawaii. Now I am way more interested in the fishing than the food. But with all the new lodges, Fiji flight issues, and lack of food. Still a good trip for the money but sheesh not even enough food to eat.