Christmas Is. - Under the Southern Cross Part 3

[Tony Buzolich]

Wanting to try something different, our group next decides to head toward the “back country”, an area several miles to the south reserved as a bird sanctuary and private milkfish ponds. No boats here, and we're dropped off along the way at various spots to walk the shore next to deeper water. No long flats here just lots of mating and nesting Frigate birds and Blue-footed Boobies.

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We stop at the end of a road and there's a nice rest area with a dam separating the milkfish farms from the open water of the lagoon and I can see lots of fish cruising everywhere. A quick toss of my airhead and I get instantly slammed by a GT, then another almost a carbon copy of the first.

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I move farther out to a point and deeper water. This time I get slammed hard and it's BIG. Line and backing is disappearing and my drag is tightened to max. My #4 Abel is starting to show the bottom of the spool before this fish even starts to slow down. Gawd! What an Adrenalin rush this is. I need to regain some of my backing but can't lift the fish at all. I decide to keep the rod straight and walk slowly backwards letting the drag do the work. This works. I turn the fish and start to get some backing back on the spool. Slowly my fish comes in and I've got what I really came for, another Giant Trevally.

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With arms still shaking, T.J. our guide helps me lift my trophy. Enough for one day.

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Our last day starts on the flats again with lots of small bones and GT's. At one spot I even get two GT's at a time as one chases the other trying to take the fly out of the first ones mouth. T.J. hands me my second rod and without even a long cast I get my second hook-up instantly.

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With the boat coming for us to move to another flat, I make one more cast and get another instant grab. This one goes airborne and I'm not sure what I've got. Several more jumps and I've landed a Queenfish. My first ever Queenfish without having to travel to Australia.

Our last night back at the lodge we're treated to a Kiribati luau before heading home. Platters of fresh sashimi, barbecued lobster, and whole roasted pig finished off our trip, all under the stars and the Southern Cross. Another great trip.

Tony

[mems]

Aloha Tony, looks like another great trip to CI. Nice GT there at the milkfish ponds. There are some big bones there as well. Glad to see the boys still wearing their EDGE shirts. Looks like some fun bluewater action as well. Rainbow runner are great eating. Glad Jim had a fun time as well. Did you go for bones on Oahu? Biita is doing a good job making it happen again. I miss all those guys, thanks for sharing, Don.

[dynaflow]

Sounds like you had a ball Tony & co.and that's a cracking GT...there were lots of the always aerobatic Ladyfish (Skipjack) around on my last trip too which made for some fun between Bonefish.Tell me,are they still chumming at Crystal Beach?

[Tony Buzolich]

No chumming anywhere . I think all of the lodges have quit doing that.
Tony

[Darian]

Hey Tony,.... Great report and trip!! Can't wait to get back there this fall. Congrats on the big GT, I gotta get into one of those. The first photo (of you and Jim together) is a really good one. :cool:

[dynaflow]

I'm pleased to hear that Tony as Crystal Beach was a known offender.
Regards
Peter

[Baja Fly Fisher]

Thanks Tony for a great report. I can't wait for October. How was the weather for February. The last time we went in March and just so happened a big front came through the week before and flooded the island. We had to take detours on different roads. Looks like you guys had a lot of sunshine. Makes it easier to spot the fish. Was the off shore fishing pretty good. Is it all trolling and no fly casting? I want to get some yellow fin so we can have some real sashimi and not the thin cut stuff. I thinking I'll buy some spam in Hawaii and have the gals make me some musubi for my lunch. I'll pay them the extra money, much better than the sandwiches they make. What I like is that there is no big hassle going through immigration and customs. Sure not like Mexico.
I might stay in Hawaii for a couple extra days to visit and possibly do some flats fishing. I grew up on Oahu and left there in 1962 for the mainland. Last year's trip to CI was the first time I was back on Oahu since 1962.
Did you guys get to fish the Korean Ship Wreck. This is one area that I want to try. I'm getting my legs and knees it shape to make that long walk. I'm in the gym 6 days a week on the bike for 10 miles, tread mill for a half hour and doing leg presses on the machine. I hope all this works out.
So you must've been there when they evacuated Marysville and Yuba City or were you still at home. That must've been some big ordeal.

I hope we have a good trip in October. Next year I might schedule at least three trips to CI.

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

Starting in 1986 I went there 13 times so far, mostly in February, and experienced everything from droughts to flooding.

I think Stan Hellekson yearly use to like August.

You do have the two weeks in a month with bigger flooding tides and the two weeks with subtle Neep tides.

Some think the Flooding tides are better for Giant Trevally and the Neep tides are better for Bonefishing.

The 3 days after the Full moon usually have big schools of big Bonefish spawning around Paris Flats.

I think you could go there almost any week of any month and have better fishing than in many other places.

I still believe this is one of the finest fisheries in the world.

When you are wading out on the flats it is magic.


Looks like Jay Murakoshi and Tony will be going there every year now....wonderful.


Thanks for the world class posts Tony.

.

.

[Tony Buzolich]

Jay,

We lucked out with the weather and only got sprinkled a little bit on the ride back to the lodge on the last day. I asked Max (one of the guides) about the weather and he said they were going to have an early "wet" season.

We didn't get to the Korean Wreck as they said the surf was too rough to fish it well, so we opted for the "back country" and did some exploring. It was still a long ride in the back of those little tut-tuts.

Offshore we did great. It was all trolling but, we could have stopped and cast for milkfish once we got past Poland point. There were schools of milkfish sucking the surface everywhere. Literally thousands of them in mass schools on the surface all sucking the algae off the top. They didn't seem bothered by the boat either, but non of us brought a light rod to try for them. I think a 9wt. or 10wt. with a full floating line would be the rod to take for them. These aren't the small milkfish you see on the flats, they're much bigger.

You're right about getting in shape before you go. There's a ton of walking and being in shape really helps. I'd been using a treadmill for several months and wish I had done more. Uugh. It's tough getting old :)
Tony

[mems]

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Aloha Tony, we got some milkies out in the ocean in that school. This is a 15lber caught by Jesse Lange on a scum fly he tied.
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This si the one I landed out of the school. I hooked two others right before this one, but the other fish in the school pulled the hook. I asked the driver to pull this one out of the school and I was able to land him. I got all three fish to feed on an unweighted wooly bugger of all thinks. Moana told me they were feeding on a work. The milkies attacked that fly like no other. It was like they just wanted to eat that, and rushed the fly. No sipping, it was a great bite.
Glad you guys had fun. Too bad no ono, they are just now hitting the big island. Don.

[Baja Fly Fisher]

Don
Good look milk fish. I hope to target them on our adventure into the blue water. I'm going to tie up some pink, tan and red worm flies using the rubber material. Also some chartreuse marabou on a black hook. I've caught a couple milk fish in baja on the chartreuse colored fly. This year I hope I don't forget my 7 boxes of bone fish flies, like I did on my last trip. I plan on leaving all my flies with the guides.
Tony,
Did you get to fish with Michael? I'm suppose to take him a bunch of fly tying materials so he can tie up a bunch of bone fish flies.
Also going to tie up a purple/black wig hair bait fish for the GT's. A friend of mine caught a GT in the 90lb range on the fly.
I still need to tie up some flies for my trip to New Zealand next month and then some flies for my "last" trip to Baja.
Just doesn't seem like enough time to do it all. I can't wait for October

If anyone is interested in a trip, I have 3 spots left in my October trip. Try it, will like it. And go back again and again and again.

[Baja Fly Fisher]

Mem,

What rod is that? One of the Edge rods. I want to try the Esox rod in New Zealand and CI. I have the lighter rod.

[Tony Buzolich]

Those are definitely 9wt. or 10wt. size fish. Any chance you've got a picture of the flies you used? Tony

[Tony Buzolich]

Jay,

We fished with Mike the first day, but Michael wasn't around at all. Then Mike didn't show up for the second day as he was sick with some kind of heart condition. Both Mike and Michael are great guides, I've fished with both.
Tony

[mems]

That is an edge 8wt rod. The fly was a brown unweighted wooly bugger. If you position the boat and cast up current of the school, I just stripped the fly a little and wham they slammed it. Jay the Esox rod would be good for short quick casts to cruising GT's. I brought one last time and got a 10lb GT on it, no problem. I usully fished the bluewater 12wt for GT'sand used it for pelagics offshore. Mike and Michael and Biita are all good guides, they are like family now. Don.

[Carl Blackledge]

Tony,

I sure like the large variety of fish you caught. I am interested is going to a lodge where you don't have to just catch bonefish all day long and possibly have one or two shots at GTs, I can get at least 4-6 others.

What lodge are you staying at? How is the food? Do you eat anything besides just fish?

I understand that the Villages give you one guide per person, however you starve to death eating peanut butter sandwiches.

When is the next time your heading over there?

Carl Blackledge

[Tony Buzolich]

Carl,

I've been to the Crystal Beach lodge twice. I chose this lodge because of the constant ocean breeze you get which helps with few mosquitos or bugs. They are there too but not as bad as other places on the island. Over at the Villages you are in the lee of the island with little breeze to chase anything away. I shouldn't comment on the Villages as I've never stayed there.

Food at the Crystal Beach was adequate but subject to available supplies coming in either by plane or ship. We had plenty of fresh tuna every day for dinners and sashimi before dinner outside. Dinners were not gourmet but we did have chicken a couple of nights, steak one night, spaghetti out of a can, etc. etc. The final night was a farewell luau with a whole roasted pig, lobsters for everybody, roasted breadfruit, and always rice. Rice was a daily standard with every meal. They did a fine job with what they had for supplies but I think I'll offer to cook a few meals for everyone next time.

There's pros and cons for every place you go. Some like this , some like that. You just have to take it as it comes and make the best of things. If you are expecting something, then the door is open for disappointment.

I was told at the Villages you make your own lunches. We had great sandwiches every day, meat, turkey, etc. with lettuce and tomato. The favorite sandwich though was the fish made out of fresh tuna and mayo.

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

Can you put up a large photo and description of a fly for Milkfish?

[Baja Fly Fisher]

If you're looking for a 4 star lodging and meals, ya better stay home. Remember, this is an Atoll in the middle of the pacific that is at or below sea level. I found the food and lodging adequate. I go for the fishing and not all the bells and whistles. The people who run the lodge are happy to serve you and the guides, they are definitely top notch. I understand most of them at one time worked for the Villages but decided to work elsewhere. Yes, it's true that there are one guide per two clients but I usually went on my own in search of bones, triggers and GT's. This October I hope we can get to the Korean ship wreck. Lot's of different species and lot's of walking.
There was also another place that Bita mentioned. You had to have a good incoming tide to make it in and had to leave on the outgoing tide. If you were late, you spend the night there.
This will probably my destination trip for my clients. Baja is still on the list but has dropped down the list. My biggest thing is Mexican TSA and the airlines going and coming to Mexico.

[Baja Fly Fisher]

Mems,

Last trip, I talked with Michael a long time. He told me that his father use to own Crystal Beach lodge AKA Sharks Place. When he died, he said his "wicked" step mother now owns it and some times comes around the lodge. You'll know when she's around :)
Come October when I head back to CI, I'm taking a bunch of fly tying materials for Michael. He showed me some of the flies he tied, looked pretty good and were very effective.
They have never heard of cevichi . they were curious on how to make it. I would love to catch a wahoo or tuna and have some fresh sashimi that is cut like I'm use to eating it, thick. I'll also have to buy some wasabi powder in Honolulu so we don't have to squeeze it from a tube. I would like to take a day off and go visit the town and people. These people have very little but are very happy.
I guess I'll have to tie up some brown wooly worms. Weighted or unweighted

[Tony Buzolich]

Jay,

That is a picture of Michael's father hanging behind the bar. Also Michael's younger brother Adrian works or helps out there sometimes too. Nice kid.

[Carl Blackledge]

Carl,

I've been to the Crystal Beach lodge twice. I chose this lodge because of the constant ocean breeze you get which helps with few mosquitos or bugs. They are there too but not as bad as other places on the island. Over at the Villages you are in the lee of the island with little breeze to chase anything away. I shouldn't comment on the Villages as I've never stayed there.

Food at the Crystal Beach was adequate but subject to available supplies coming in either by plane or ship. We had plenty of fresh tuna every day for dinners and sashimi before dinner outside. Dinners were not gourmet but we did have chicken a couple of nights, steak one night, spaghetti out of a can, etc. etc. The final night was a farewell luau with a whole roasted pig, lobsters for everybody, roasted breadfruit, and always rice. Rice was a daily standard with every meal. They did a fine job with what they had for supplies but I think I'll offer to cook a few meals for everyone next time.

There's pros and cons for every place you go. Some like this , some like that. You just have to take it as it comes and make the best of things. If you are expecting something, then the door is open for disappointment.

I was told at the Villages you make your own lunches. We had great sandwiches every day, meat, turkey, etc. with lettuce and tomato. The favorite sandwich though was the fish made out of fresh tuna and mayo.

Tony,

Thanks for the honest answers....Honestly is a very welcome breath of fresh air after dealing with Fishing International and my Guatemala BS trip.

I guess I wouldn't like the food at your place. At home I work out, jog and eat very conservable and try to stay healthy, after that being said When you pay a lot of doe for a fishing trip, I do expect to break my regular routine and eat lots of good stuff. Tuna fish and rice just wouldn't make the grade.
Besides that looks like a good trip :)

Carl Blackledge

[Baja Fly Fisher]

Tony,
I forgot to mention that. I wonder if Michael will be next in line for the lodge when the "wicked step mother" passes on.
Yep Carl, you better look elsewhere for a good destination. Only one other place that I've been would be a close second to
CI was Honduras. The lodge was also located on an island. I loved the thick heavy coffee in the morning and the croc we had for
dinner a couple times during the week. I don't eat red meat so when it was steak night, I gave the kitchen people my steak.
I'm buying some spam in Honolulu for breakfast and musubi lunch. When I was a kid in Hawaii, I grew up on that, along with bento box lunches

[Carl Blackledge]

Tony,
I forgot to mention that. I wonder if Michael will be next in line for the lodge when the "wicked step mother" passes on.
Yep Carl, you better look elsewhere for a good destination. Only one other place that I've been would be a close second to
CI was Honduras. The lodge was also located on an island. I loved the thick heavy coffee in the morning and the croc we had for
dinner a couple times during the week. I don't eat red meat so when it was steak night, I gave the kitchen people my steak.
I'm buying some spam in Honolulu for breakfast and musubi lunch. When I was a kid in Hawaii, I grew up on that, along with bento box lunches

Jay,

As I told Tony, Thanks for being honest. Your right I wouldn't be interested in any place where I must bring my own food.

The odd thing is look at the money that these outfits make on their customers and the free trips that the trip leaders get, They can bring you and your gear in, but not food. Something there just doesn't jive. I am sure I am not the only guy that doesn't want to eat Tuna and rice for diner.

Again, thatnks for being honest

Carl Blackledge

[mems]

Hey Carl how was the fishing in Guat? Did you catch many sails? I think most guys go to Ci for the fishing, not the food. You can eat pretty well in Oahu before and after. We bring food with us just to make it better. I taught them how to make blackened sashimi, hard to get sick of that. Mems.
Jay if you need nori let me know, you can make lots of musubis at home. Don.

[Carl Blackledge]

Mems,


The fishing in Guatemala sucked with the Green horn crew and Captain they gave us and the boat they switched us to was just a "crop duster" the smell of that old beat up and worn out engine fumes would just make you sick all day long. We were also promised a highly talented Captain and crew, We didn't get those guys. We got the C team

I don't go to 3 rd world country's to eat, I go to fish, however just regular food like eggs and bacon would be OK, perhaps a little meat and salad for diner, is that too much to ask for? In Mexico which is also a 3 rd world country I love their food, and don't have any complaints

Mem's as you can see I do ask lots of questions before I book any trip, on my Guatemala trip I was misrepresented the whole way on every aspect

Carl Blackledge

[dynaflow]

As someone who's fished C.I.regularly for the past decade I'd like to clear up a few anomalies and plain misunderstandings about the various accommodation and their respective facilities.Please note that I have no commercial interest whatsoever in any of the Lodges.Firstly,I find it strange that the best Lodge on the island hasn't been mentioned in this thread...Ikari House,and here's a few reasons why.It's around the corner from the harbour,has the best food(by popular consensus),best (air conditioned)accommodation and IMHO the best Guides.Until his recent sad passing Moana Kofe was Head Guide and his shoes have been filled jointly by English's protege Kuritaro (Ray) and Nathan.Ikari also has the best boats,both traditional and fast hull.As mentioned and to their credit,the Villages is the only Lodge to offer one Guide per angler,and re the sandwich comment,you make up your own from a variety of available fillings which suits most just fine,rather than everyone getting the same.They also have a semi-permanent resident Aussie IFFF CCI.in Nial Logan and run a good operation.The Captain Cook Lodge hasn't been good for a while and needs refurbishment.Friends who've stayed at the Shark Lodge (Crystal Beach) tell tales of no hot water,local coconut bread (yeeech),lack of cold anything to drink and so-so food.I can only hope this has improved.Re mosquitos,I've never had a problem with them as they're only around for a short period at dusk and dawn.They were more prevalent in recent years due to the excess water from the El Nino weather event (thankfully passed) and this also contributed to some local people becoming infected with Chikungunya (a mosquito born virus from Africa).Wearing the right clothing helps,although I appreciate that some blood types are more attractive to Mozzies than others.Re GT fishing,mostly it's opportunistic in the lagoon so if you fish with a Guide have him carry your ready rigged big rod,and this also helps him point out fish you can't see.

[Carl Blackledge]

Thanks for that :)

Carl