Fly reels?

[rh crank]

Some questions about reel choices. If a large arbor reel keeps fly lines spooled at a larger diameter which should help reduce kinking, wouldn't they be the choice for any rod, even your dry fly 5wt? As long as the reel is lightweight enough? Or are large arbor reels considered for heavier rods only?

Does anyone have positive reviews of the Hardy CLS 5000 cassette reel? Some info suggests these reels are too heavy for a 9' 6wt. I'm looking to buy a reel with 4 spools for my 6-7 without spending more than $225 - $250. Any suggestions thanks.

[Sheepdog8404]

The Lamson Liquid or the Lamson Remix are both available in a 3 pack. I believe the liquid is a full cast frame and spool, you get one reel and 2 extra spools for about $169 for the 7wt size. The Remix is a machined frame and comes with cast spools. It is a bit more but I'm pretty sure you can get the Remix 3 pack (again 1 reel and 2 extra spools) for just over $200... maybe $250?

[rh crank]

Thanks 84. Can you help explain a 'full cast frame' and 'machined frame'?

[Bob G]

Yes, regarding the benefit of larger diameter fly reels, either large arbor or not. However, personal preferences significantly impact most of our decisions.

Good Luck, Bob

[Terry Thomas]

Capacity. Large arbor reels don't have the backing capacity to hold the much larger size of Spey lines, especially skagit and mid belly lines.

[Tony Buzolich]

In reference to "cast frames" vs. "machined".. " Cast" anything is a cheaper way of forming a shape. A liquid of some kind is poured into a mold, left to cool, and then harden, Some machining or shaping or sanding is then done to create the final design before a finish is applied. The liquids can be anything from aluminum, to iron, to composite plastics and polymers, to water. All cast objects have a high degree of brittleness making them more susceptible to damage of breakage.

By comparison, " Machined" reels, or tools, or parts of any kind have the highest degree of strength but require more actual labor to produce which results in a finer longer lasting part with higher degrees of tolerance.

If you look at some of the advertising on the "best" reels you will see the words "fully machined" often from billet aluminum or a specific grade of aluminum like #6061.

These better companies know that people recognize quality and a higher end product, and are willing to pay for it. Some fly reels aren't meant for high end use or bigger heavier fish. Small trout size fish don't require a disc drag on a small stream scale of fishing. Nothing wrong using an ABEL or a TIBOR in a spring creek, but it's just a bit of over-kill for the fish being pursued.

Just my two cents, Tony

[Sheepdog8404]

Thanks for covering that information Tony! OP, in regards to the brittleness of a cast reel, manufacturerers have come a long way and the cast reels being produced today are fairly strong. You should still try to refrain from beating on them too much though if you can avoid it. The Lamson reels I discussed in my first post are both built around Lamsons awesome drag system. My understanding is that they use the same drag on the $89 liquid as they do in the $439 ARX.

[rh crank]

Sorry guys, still confused about large arbor. Terry, sure the spey lines take up more space which means less backing. But for a single hand line like a 6wt floater, wouldn't a large arbor hold more backing? Or am I looking at this wrong?

[DLJeff]

Crank -
The primary reason large arbor reels were created was to increase the speed at which one can retrieve line. They did this at the expense of backing capacity as most large arbor reels will not hold the same amount of backing as the same size standard arbor reel. There would be nothing wrong with making a large arbor 5wt reel - but one rarely needs fast retrieval rates for most 5 wt fishing. On the other hand you rarely need a large amount of backing during 5wt fishing either. One disadvantage of standard arbor reels is you rarely see the backing that's way on the inside. That can cause that backing to deteriorate, especially if you're using the old Dacron backing.

[James W]

OP, in regards to the brittleness of a cast reel, manufacturerers have come a long way and the cast reels being produced today are fairly strong.

The manufacturing of cast aluminum components has improved dramatically since the olden days. The spools for both reels are cast.
I personally think the Remix "looks better", and represents a crazy good value.
Check out Lamson's warranty on these reels!

[Darian]

Seems like everyone has covered pro's/con's, already and DLJeff has the primary purpose for large arbor reels right. Another point in favor of large arbor reels is that once set, drag doesn't increase as much when a large, fast fish is running as much as it does when using a standard arbor reel. As the line is taken out and comes closer to the spool, the diameter of the line/spool decreases and increases pressure on the drag (mechanical advantage). So, the drag is increased without any manual adjustment. There's less chance of this happening with a large arbor real.

The only places where I've considered this sort of thing were in saltwater or Delta fly fishing. Might have to at Pyramid, tho.

[jds108]

In reference to "cast frames" vs. "machined".. " Cast" anything is a cheaper way of forming a shape. A liquid of some kind is poured into a mold, left to cool, and then harden, Some machining or shaping or sanding is then done to create the final design before a finish is applied. The liquids can be anything from aluminum, to iron, to composite plastics and polymers, to water. All cast objects have a high degree of brittleness making them more susceptible to damage of breakage.

By comparison, " Machined" reels, or tools, or parts of any kind have the highest degree of strength but require more actual labor to produce which results in a finer longer lasting part with higher degrees of tolerance.

If you look at some of the advertising on the "best" reels you will see the words "fully machined" often from billet aluminum or a specific grade of aluminum like #6061.

These better companies know that people recognize quality and a higher end product, and are willing to pay for it. Some fly reels aren't meant for high end use or bigger heavier fish. Small trout size fish don't require a disc drag on a small stream scale of fishing. Nothing wrong using an ABEL or a TIBOR in a spring creek, but it's just a bit of over-kill for the fish being pursued.

Just my two cents, Tony

Cast vs machined isn't quite that simple when one also factors in forging. A cast and forged item may very well be stronger than something made by machining. Fly reels are limited-production items and the casting/forging process is typically only profitable on a more large-scale production schedule. I'd simply say don't get caught up in cast vs machined.

[njbeast]

Cant comment on the large arbor thing but I can cast a vote for the Lamson. I have three, two Velocity and one Guru. I use the Guru for steel on my 7 wt. Pretty much bulletproof. Did loose two fish last year when the drag failed, first time in five years and many fish. Sent the reel in and quick repair at no cost to me. Prompt service.

[EricO]

Hey Crank (I like saying that),

I have a large arbor Galvan OB4 that I've had on my 5wt for almost a decade. I've only been
into my backing one time, and that was because i foul hooked a half-pounder. I use a large arbor
Lamson Guru on my 4wt....love both of them. The line retrieval is great.

The Lamson Guru is a great price point too.

Eric

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

Just be sure to get a reel that is the right size for your rod and lines.

Large arbor is a good thing but not as important as just having a solid reel that is the right size and that won't go bad on you.


That Hardy cassette would be good on a 6 weight rod but I would not use one on anything larger.

A 6 weight is the rod that people seem to have the most full lines for like in lake fishing.

But in lake fishing many usually have several (3) outfits set up..........3 rods, 3 reels and 3 different full lines.

Extra spool sales have dramatically slowed in the last few decades.


Trying to save money by using one reel for several sizes of rods is not always a good idea.

Now you really only have one reel to use at a time and all the wear is on one frame.

.

[epzamora]

Are you planning on using the one rod and reel/spool with three spare spools for a day's fishing? I was caught up on buying spare spools when i started but i've come to realize having separate rods with reels and lines rigged to go is the better method for a day's fishing. having to reline a rod when swapping spools is a major pain to me. of course i wrap my own rods on cheap imported blanks and buy discounted reels, or used or on sale, to save money. and again, i typically only carry two rod/reel setups, not four. :)

and it's no longer simply cast vs machined options. These days, manufacturers create a hybrid reel, combing the processes.

eric
fresno, ca.

[Carl Blackledge]

Crank -
The primary reason large arbor reels were created was to increase the speed at which one can retrieve line. They did this at the expense of backing capacity as most large arbor reels will not hold the same amount of backing as the same size standard arbor reel. There would be nothing wrong with making a large arbor 5wt reel - but one rarely needs fast retrieval rates for most 5 wt fishing. On the other hand you rarely need a large amount of backing during 5wt fishing either. One disadvantage of standard arbor reels is you rarely see the backing that's way on the inside. That can cause that backing to deteriorate, especially if you're using the old Dacron backing.

Crank,

My 2 cents on small reels is: I prefer Large arbor reels compared to standard arbor, what I don't like about the standard arbor reels are the little tiny arbor the size of a dime, plus your drag pressure keeps changing as the reel fills and empty's as you play a fish, even a small half pounder, As far as backing is concerned, I always use braid, with braid you get at least twice as much backing as compared to Dacron, plus the braid won't deteriorate or rot, so who cares how long it's on there :) just my 2 cents

Carl Blackledge

[JayDubP]

Large vs. small arbor reels matter more on the retrieval than in line capacity.

Here are some Lamson Guru reel specs:
a) size 2 (5-6wt), fly line WF6 90ft, backing 300 ft)- do you really need all that backing, when was the last time a trout ran 390ft on you?

b) Size 3.5 (6-7-8wt) fly line 7wt 100ft, backing 200yds -- if you have 700ft of line out on a steelhead, it is 2 rapids downriver and you have bigger problems.

And if you fall hard enough to break a cast aluminum spool or bend a machined reel, you wont even know it until you get out of the hospital.... in real life the bangs and drops and such will not more than cosmetic damage...

[Carl Blackledge]

Large vs. small arbor reels matter more on the retrieval than in line capacity.

Here are some Lamson Guru reel specs:
a) size 2 (5-6wt), fly line WF6 90ft, backing 300 ft)- do you really need all that backing, when was the last time a trout ran 390ft on you?

b) Size 3.5 (6-7-8wt) fly line 7wt 100ft, backing 200yds -- if you have 700ft of line out on a steelhead, it is 2 rapids downriver and you have bigger problems.

And if you fall hard enough to break a cast aluminum spool or bend a machined reel, you wont even know it until you get out of the hospital.... in real life the bangs and drops and such will not more than cosmetic damage...

Jay,

I like fast retrieval rate and a lot of backing myself.

What happens when your on the Klamath river fishing for half pounders and you hook an adult Steelhead, or Salmon ?....390 feet gone in 5 seconds. Just a thought.

You don't have to fall hard enough to go to the hospital to damage your reel for the day, seen lots of friends fall and knock the handles off, bend the reel so bad you couldn't use it.

I own 3 Abel spey reels. they have the little tiny arbor, however I use shooting heads on all 3 and I pack the reel with backing right to the top, by doing this I have tuned them into large arbor because the shooting head doesn't take up much space, even after a 80-90 foot cast I still have a fast retrive because the arbor is still built up with backing (at least 3 inches) of course if I put a full line on this reel and made a long cast the arbor would be a lot smaller, sometimes if you do things right you can have your cake and eat it too.

It really doesn't matter to me what reel anybody uses, each fisherman should buy what they like and can afford. I am just trying to give you more options.

Carl Blackledge

[JAWallace]

For larger arbor trout reels it's hard to beat the Allen reels. I have three, absolutely no problems, very good drag, fully machined for under $150 and lots of color choices too :)

I have several Galvan Torques, and those are my hands down favorite, but mid arbors. If you want to save some money you can get a Rush Lite for under $300--the Torques are nicer, better looking, but the drags in the two are identical and the Rush and Torque spools are interchangeable. Torques are approaching $400 now. Spending that for a trout reel is a choice, not a necessity. I choose to because I love everything about the reels and the company. For pelagics I'd spend the money for a T-8 or T-10 Galvan, cry once, never again, same for coastal steelhead. For most trout, the Allen is just fine.

I would not buy another small arbor reel, like an Abel. There's not one advantage to a small arbor other than compactness. Sometimes the Allens feel a little big on smaller rods, but the Galvans do not. Of course, there's always the Peerless :cool: