skagit cast

[rh crank]

When beginning a Skagit cast with heavy sink tip, which casts are more effective to get it moving. For example, I've been experimenting with the Perry Poke river left and 12' T14. Can't seem to get enough lift to properly reposition the line. Is the poke better suited for less stick?

[Rick J]

first - no - the poke can work well with any tip/fly selection. But water conditions can be a problem - if you have squirrely currents downstream it can be tough to unstick without first roll casting the line up

Probably one of the biggest faults I see from folks in the lift and set is just lifting and resetting using the top hand to drag the line up - think of this action as a fulcrum just like many aspects of spey casting - if you lift a bit with the top hand but kick with the bottom hand you can much more easily move that fly. I really rarely need to lift much higher than head high with the top hand to free the tip and fly. But I see a more exaggerated lift by many which also works

[gitt]

What is the wt and length of the rod? The anchor point is what I have found to be so critical as far as stick. There is definitely a sweet spot, so I focus on that. Too much anchor and it is tough to move the line, especially with 12' of T14. Try a touch and go as well. If you are in SF, hit the GG casting ponds for a cheap critic, advice and overall help. Ed Ward's video is worth watching 100 times as well. He uses that constant motion in order to keep things fluid in his cast. I even see guys with T-14 at the Oakland Casting ponds do a lift and dip in their rotation prior to developing a D loop just get the tip higher in the water column.

[rh crank]

Thanks guys. Keeping the bottom hand involved in the game is a constant reminder. Will work on that kick. Once I've placed the anchor, not much trouble with the forward cast.

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

Going out with a good Spey instructor/guide is a good thing to do.

Even a couple of hours of help can be dramatic.

[winxp_man]

Going out with a good Spey instructor/guide is a good thing to do.

Even a couple of hours of help can be dramatic.


+1 If you dont get it right the first time or in a few days of practice this shows that you might be a slower with the learning. BUT!! There is nothing wrong with that at all. Not everyone can learn to cast by themselves or just by watching videos. So in this I say grab a person that really knows his/her stuff and to show you the correct way. You dont want to learn the wrong way because it sucks trying to break bad habits.

[Victor Yee]

When beginning a Skagit cast with heavy sink tip, which casts are more effective to get it moving. For example, I've been experimenting with the Perry Poke river left and 12' T14. Can't seem to get enough lift to properly reposition the line. Is the poke better suited for less stick?

Since you are near the SF Golden Gate Park, you should consider dropping by the pond as there are many outstanding casters that may help you steer in the proper direction. Something to consider... your 12' tip on a short rod may be the problem if you are using say a switch rod. Or the rod tip on a lighter rod may be extremely soft and not firm enough and therefore, collapse as you try to sweep. Try a 10' tip to see if your casting respond better. Better yet, go to the pond!

[Sheepdog8404]

Give Andy Guibbord a call and set up a lesson with him. I scheduled a couple hours with him to give spey casting a shot and it was definetly money well invested! Getting a good instructor to pick apart your technique and teach you the right way is invaluable. Spend the little bit of money and really learn how to effectively use your gear!

https://andyguibord.wordpress.com/instruction-fly-tyingcasting/

[Nate Bailey]

When beginning a Skagit cast with heavy sink tip, which casts are more effective to get it moving. For example, I've been experimenting with the Perry Poke river left and 12' T14. Can't seem to get enough lift to properly reposition the line. Is the poke better suited for less stick?

There are a bunch of variables in the all of spey casting, the perry poke(or any other water born cast) can be frustrating if you don't have enough head to pull 12' of t14 out of the water. When I'm helping people learn how to cast, I have found that most of the time their setup is off as much as their technique. What head are you using to throw that tip?

[rh crank]

Nate, it's a Skagit compact 570gr. Most of the struggle results from trying to lift a long heavy tip and barbell fly and trying to consistently place the anchor. You are right about the setup, it's all about getting the anchor where it's supposed to be.
rh

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

I think the biggest problem is most people have two handed setups that are not quite right.

Try to get out with someone who really know a lot about Spey casting.

Getting the right size rod with the right line and tips is very critical.

Getting out with a person who can get you straightened out is the other key to success.


Single handed fly fishing is not near as hard to learn as two handed fishing.

[Terry Thomas]

A major problem that I have observed is a tendency to believe that you have to muscle heavy tips and flies out of the water. A quick application of power at the beginning of the lift will drop the rod tip, similar to the cause of tailing loops in single hand casting. Begin with a slow lift will the rod tip at water level. continue with a gradual increase in speed until you see the tip come out of the water. Begin your snap-T/circle C and clear the rod tip out of the path of the fly. Again, begin a gradual increase in speed of the sweep to a lift and stop. As you wade deeper, your sweep must get higher off of the water. Trust it. Nothing beats time on the water. 2cents added.

[Nate Bailey]

Nate, it's a Skagit compact 570gr. Most of the struggle results from trying to lift a long heavy tip and barbell fly and trying to consistently place the anchor. You are right about the setup, it's all about getting the anchor where it's supposed to be.
rh

Try adjusting your lift to a more deliberate lift, use the full length of the rod to completely lift the full head out of the water. at the split second the head to tip connection is out of the water start your cast. remember your lift is to clear your head completely from the surface tension the water. hope that helps.