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View Full Version : Touchup Paint for Anodized Reel



EricW
01-09-2012, 09:28 AM
I screwed up a couple months ago and smashed my Torque. Well, the guys in the shop set me up with a new frame pronto! (free shipping to Reno, no tax :) Thx Bill!)

I've got a spool that's completely functional but has a few big scuff marks well through the anodize. Dressed them with a tiny bit of filing. Want to cover up the marks some paint. Anyone have some suggestions before I commit. I was thinking hard enamel paint (like the model paints from building models as a kid).

shawn kempkes
01-09-2012, 11:10 AM
Don't do it. I will look like crap and the paint wont stick. The only option is to have the reel stripped and re-annodized which will screw up the tolerances on the reel so it will never be the same.

this would probable cost more than a new spool.

Tony Buzolich
01-09-2012, 11:59 AM
I agree with Shawn about using paint. It'll look like a touch up and never lay smooth or flat.

Depending on the color of your reel and the size of your scratch you may want to try a permanent felt marker. I've got several Abels that have developed boat rash over the years and I've used a felt marker on them and the scratches can hardly be seen. True though the scratches are very small, and the color is BLACK, they did hide well.

If you can match the color, I'd try a permanent marker if the area is small.
TONY

EricW
01-09-2012, 12:47 PM
Thanks for the warning. I was worried about it not sticking, but definitely want to seal it.

Talked to one of the guys at my company's machine shop. He suggested Coricone 1700 (http://www.corrotherm.com/coricone.htm). Sounds like the stuff, applied by brush or spray, very thin, penetrates and seals, prevents corrosion and adds some surface hardness. Looks like it's worth a shot.

Frank Alessio
01-10-2012, 11:13 AM
How about some before and after pictures...

EricW
01-11-2012, 12:06 AM
Borrowed the can and applied the stuff tonight. Even with the tiny amount I used and the garage door open, the stuff is damn nasty (all kinds of crap in it, worse than most I think). I sprayed a small amount directly onto a cotton pad and a swab, then dabbed the scuffs a couple times. I knew the before/after pics wouldn't be very dramatic, so I went a little science fair, putting some on foil and a chunk of aluminum angle.

Dried quick but hasn't officially cured. Very noticeable difference in water beading, pretty clear (could only see it on the foil at certain angles), less than a thou thick, maybe a touch smoother/slicker on the angle. Sharpie seems to be holding, so I'll hit it with black in a week (spool has faded a bit).

http://www.sexyloops.com/picofday/eric/rails/rails40a.jpg

http://www.sexyloops.com/picofday/eric/rails/rails40b.jpg

Frank Alessio
01-11-2012, 09:45 AM
Should work just fine.. It is nice to know there are still some Machine Shops in operation... Very good...

EricW
01-11-2012, 11:22 AM
Probably unneccessary, but I had it available so why not. Seems like there would be other bigger applications for it in the marine area.

We're actually a niche LNG manufacturer of rotating machinery for export! How's that for rare now-a-days? Had a contract recently to China that wouldn't allow Chinese or Indian material, pretty funny. You wouldn't believe how difficult it was to get US made hardware (bolts, nuts, etc). We sub out most of our machining and can still find shops. Domestic aluminum foundaries that have our weight capacity and will do short runs are where we're getting pinched. Less than a handful of them left. We can make quality goods here if we get a chance, but it's tough in a global market against foreign manufacturers that don't give a damn about pollution or worker safety. There are some sites I'd be scared to set foot on. I'll stop there before I really start to rant! ;)

john
01-16-2012, 06:47 PM
I'm late to this thread. But, a bunch of years ago I dinged a Penn 1.5. Covered it with clear fingernail polish. Sealed it good, lots of saltwater use and no issues..

Digger
01-18-2012, 01:43 PM
One thing I would have suggested is to smooth out some of the surfaces before coating them. Not that you'll have any issue later on, but that is typically what is done to reduce any stress potential leading to cracks in the future.

And, you are right we can make quality goods here, but the problem is usually related to cost, not quality.

my company operates a very large machine shop, among other things, and even we struggle with suppliers trying to meet our needs.
We are actually in the reverse-outsourcing mode at the moment.