Clear Cure Goo

[Jay Murakoshi]

Have you or did you see the Clear Cure Goo at the Pleasanton show last weekend. I just started using it and will NEVER go back to epoxy. I just went out and bought the LF and now that's sitting on the table looking lonesome. Soon as I find time, I will post a couple photo's of some flies. It so easy to make lips of some of my smaller bait fish patterns and surf candies are a breeze. Sea habit heads come out great. I've been using the thick material which gives you all kinds of time to shape the head. Doesn't run all over. After the main head is shaped, the eyes on and the Scribbles laid in place and dried, I apply the thin Clear Cure on top using a brush, make it real thin. then a couple coats of Loon Hard Head or Sally Hansen's thinned out. The neatest thing is making small lips. And they dry super hard with no flex. Spoon flies, no problem
I'm working on a couple new worm patterns right now using the thin material and some colored chennile. A thin coat of thin Clear Cure sort of gives it a rubbery feel

Watch for some photo's - coming soon

jay

[Jgoding]

Hi Jay,

I'm going to try it out sometime. What's the "LF" btw... I think I offended one of the main users of this stuff when I pointed out that maybe pointing the UV light at himself wasn't a great idea but he's under the impression that it's perfectly safe which is fine I guess.

It looks like a good product except I hate having to deal with the tacky surface in all these light cured products but it seems to be a necessary evil.

[Darian]

Jeff,.... LF is Liquid Fusion. An adhesive product. Water based. Dries clear/hard. Thick. Requires no mixing. Sets up in about 15 minutes and hardens overnight. Costs around $7 to $8 USD. :D

Like you, I don't like using UV light drying products. Think I try to set up some kind of shield for safe handling; then try this new stuff.... :confused:

[Ben Kobrin]

It looks like a good product except I hate having to deal with the tacky surface in all these light cured products but it seems to be a necessary evil.

I just started using the Clear Cure Goo as well and was also a bit turned off by the tacky surface. I went to Target and bought a 100 pack of alchohol swabs (like people use to clean your skin before a shot) for like $2.99. I just hit the CCG with the UV for a few seconds, then wipe it down with the swab and it is completely smooth...no tack left at all.

From what I've heard, leaving the tack allows you to continue building/layering/shaping. Once you take the tack off you can't go back and add.

-Ben

[Bob Laskodi]

I solved the concern/hazard of using UV cure products by simply leaving them out in the sunlight to cure. Also didn't have to waste money buying a UV lamp! The same products (in dental form) are used by my dentist and whenever he fires up the UV lamp he's always wearing UV protective glasses. Something to think about.

[Jgoding]

Thanks Darian. I though LF was referring to something with the CCG but it makes sense now as liquid fusion was being discussed in another thread.

I don't mind using UV cures because of the light as I take precautions (glasses and always shine away from myself) and according to some it's totally harmless or something anyways......

I know you can get rid of the tackiness and stuff but it's just another step you gotta do then coat it again. Bob, I don't think the dental lights are UV exactly, but it's in the blue spectrum but I remember when I had my braces done and they used a shield but those lights seemed pretty high powered compared to say the Loon UV light I'm using.

Haven't had the chance to fire up the tuffleye one but I think it has a shield too and I'll be trying out CCG as well since it seems like a better product.

[Jay Murakoshi]

Being that I'm using the thick stuff, I apply it, smooth it out and then zap it with the light for 5 secs. I don't look at the object when I'm doing it.
LF is OK but after using CCG and being able to make lips, eyes, keels, etc. I will be using this product from now on. No more epoxy.
I'm using alcohol to wipe the surface, or sally hansen or loon hard head for finishing off my heads.

I'm going to try and construct some rubber worm styles with this product. They have a flexible product and I think by with what I have in mind, a CCG worm is in the future. Jig hook, cone head with tungsten bead and a small foam added on to the tail for floatation, WHAMMY bass food

Jay

[Jay Murakoshi]

Bob,

this product comes with a UV light that works on 3AAA batteries, 1 tube of thick and 1 tube of thin

Jay

[bcarson4374]

If the light your dentist uses is blue light and blue light is safe... why does he need to take precautions?
If the light your dentist uses is UV then we are talking about a light that is plugged into a wall for power, and comes with its own cooling fan it is so powerful.

This is a Light Emitting Diode LED that consumes very little power, the batteries it uses are 3 AAA batteries that last a long time. (Because it doesnt use much power at all) you can use generics, as well as rechargeables.

Here is another clue to let you know that the light is not deep in the UV spectrum or powerful....

It leaves a tacky feel on the top. If it where deep in the UV spectrum and was powerful you would be able to achieve a tack free cure.

While the Clear Cure Goo light does operate in the UV spectrum it falls under the Near Visible category.

UV Light is every where.
Here are a few examples.

Bug Zappers operate on the 350-370 nm UV wavelength...

You know your kids play places where they kick on the lights to make their clothes or carpet stand out... or dance clubs is black light... AKA UV Light.
http://www.standardpro.com/images/SECTIONS/fluorescent/wavelength2.jpg

This is your common standard incandescent bulb in your lamp.

http://www.daviddarling.info/images/incandescent_power_distribution.jpg

This is a very common light above your cubicles from GE SPX35 Tri-phosphor fluorescent

http://www.daviddarling.info/images/tri-phosphor_fluorescent.jpg

This is a ConstantColor® ceramic metal Halide from GE

http://www.daviddarling.info/images/ceramic_metal_halide_spectrum.jpg

and a few more

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l84/tiddlerPics/Ambient%20Notch%20Filter%20Screen/LightBulbSpectrumComparisons.jpg

I think before you get worried about UV light do some research- while UV light can be harmful when is deep in the UV spectrum... it can be very beneficial in the UVA and Near UV light...

As others have said above... It cures in direct sunlight... Sunlight has UV in it... Do you wear sunglasses and sunscreen all the time because you worry about exposure to UV light?
Another thing to consider. This low powered light is only on for 3-5 seconds.

If you are very cautious and conservative you can put your mind to ease by wearing ANY Polycarbonate lens... Be it glasses, shop glasses, safety glasses, shooters glasses.. any polycarbonate will transmit 0%.... 0% of UV light.

Now add any glove and your set.

I hope this information has put your mind to ease or at least has peaked your interest into maybe doing your own research.

[Jgoding]

Thanks for the info. So, if I had a powerful enough UV light I could get a tack free cure.... I like that idea.

[Bill Kiene semi-retired]

We have all the Clear Cure Goo products in stock now at Kiene's Fly Shop.

[Darian]

OK,.... Kiene's has all of the products offered by CCG in stock. :thumbsup: If you look back thru this thread, you'll see that I was cautious about using this stuff. I've since tried it and found that it cures in less time than UV knot sense and is easily rotated for even distribution (as in Sea Habits, etc.) if required. Used correctly, waste is almost non-existant. The lamp has a larger lense area.... Lotsa different ways to use it. Sooo, I'm sold on this stuff. :D

[mar]

That's excellent news. I started using this stuff recently and it's a night and day difference compared to 5-min epoxy. Super easy to use and I've had some success in building some airhead and whistler variations that produced in the delta. Time to head to the shop to replenish the stock :-)

[BillB]

Gee with a little Aminolevulinic acid and one of those kits (photodynamic therapy) I could tie and treat all my pre-cancers at the same time! Interesting effects blue light has.

[coolrivertx]

I brought CCG into my old shop, and it was an instant hit! That being said, I will still use epoxy. I tried both on my KDM Rats, and think the epoxy worked better. As for other uses, CCG is a great product. Thanks Brian for clearing up the UV spectrum stuff. Brett

[Hector Lopez]

The product sounds great. Look forward when some pictures are posted to see the finished product. Sounds like a lot of members have used the product for several different fly applications. Anybody ever thought of doing a fly tying class just focused on using the new product? I would be interested in a class like that.:fish:

[Darian]

Hector,.... If you google Clear Cure Goo, you can access the website. There're some videos about how to use the product plus a bunch of other info. Check it out. :D

[Jgoding]

Before taking the plunge there are other options that may be better as well, just keep that in mind.

[briansII]

Before taking the plunge there are other options that may be better as well, just keep that in mind.

Really? How about at least a hint. ;-)

briansII

[Jay Murakoshi]

Hector,

I will have a fly tying DVD on the market in December. I have a section in there showing how easy it is to form a head on the sea habit buck tail fly. I also have a DVD in the making for tying up an ALF pattern. I my 36 years of tying, I've used just about if not everything that you can think of. CCG has topped them all.

Don't know if Kiene's is carrying the brushable CCG but that's what I use to finish the heads on the flies.

Jay

[Hector Lopez]

Thanks for the information guys. I will look the goo on the web and be looking out for the DVD in December for my Christmas present!:eek: