PDA

View Full Version : Kwethluk River, AK Report part 1



Jet
08-17-2009, 03:44 PM
Joey and I finished our voyage down the Kwethluk River on Aug 10. We had to work hard to keep our trip alive. It was hard to find someone to accompany us o this trip due to current economic conditions. Joey and I considered making the trip alone but in the end Frank Rodriguez offered to join our party. I’m sure glad Frank came along because it would have been real tough with just the two of us. We all left Sac town at 10:00 am on July 28 and all the connecting flights went off without a hitch. We arrived in Bethel around 8pm after we gained an extra hour. Steve and Robin Powers were waiting for us at the airport with 3 pickup trucks as a large group arrived to float the Kisaralik. The lodge is starting to feel like a home away from home. We scrambled till dark converting our suit cases into dry bags. Hit the sac around 0030 -0100. The Kisaralik group was flying out first so we had a little extra time to resort our equipment. Papa Bears has 2 planes now so things move very smoothly and quickly. The Kisaralik group ran into bad weather and was dealing with 70mph winds. The weather in Bethel seemed fine at the time. They were not able to land at Kisaralik Lake and the young members on the planes made a decision to land on a boundary lake with a ½+ mile portage. This did not make the old guys at the lodge very happy. In the end I heard it turned well.

We were told our plane was 30 mins out so we had to scramble and get wadered up for the flight. Your adrenaline starts pumping at this point. We loaded up the pickup and drove to the Kuskokwim River to meet the plane. The wind was blowing more than we realized and there was a significant chop on the water. The plane landed and we had our hands full positioning the plane with the winds and waves. We loaded the plane and we were off in no time. Take off was not as bad as it looked but we were dealing with 27mph winds. We could see white caps on the lakes below. Boris was up front with us and that there chance we may not be able to land at our lake but he would take us to a pike lake to fish for the day if that was the case. This was my bumpiest ride so far in the beaver and we were all feeling a little car sick. Joey sat up front with Boris and decided to ask what the pedals on the floor do, so Boris took a move from Karl Powers and showed us by pushing them to the floor. We told Joey no more questions as that did not help with the ride. Boris lined up the beaver with the boundary lake and we dropped in with no issues. We waved good bye and started our own 200 yd portage up one side and down the other. I should mention that the trail was slippery as snot and when had to walk in the bushes for traction.

It took us an hour or so to get all our stuff to the river. Frank had opted to bring his personal raft which utilized 15ft pontoons. Frank and I worked on the Frame and Joey pumped up the pontoons. Frank and I were engulfed with the raft when we encountered our first of 5 brown bears. A bear decided to cross the river about 20 yards upstream and upwind of us. Joey heard the bear enter the water but we did not and Joey was kind of nice enough to let us know he was there. We made some noise and he continued on his way crossing and scampered off. Why is it that the gun is never loaded when you encounter your first bear. We finished packing the raft and were off heading down the Kwethluk with a nice wind to push us down.

Joey and Boris with the 1959 beaver.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009002.jpg
Papa Bear’s second plane
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009005.jpg
Our ride leaving us at the boundary lake
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009007.jpg
The wind was not warm it felt like an Arctic blast but it sure was helping us make good time down the river. We stopped once about 2 miles in at location that was supposed to be good fishing. We ate some lunch and readjusted the load on the raft till we liked it. It was so winding casting was very difficult. The river was off color and had a chalky bluish/green tinge to it with poor visibility. Sure looked nice but fishing sucked. It did not take us long to come up on a group of 8 who decided to spend an extra night to wait the storm out. They were very nice and offered us drink and food. They were from Anchorage and have been doing trips like these for years. We asked if they had any luck fishing and they said no. We talked for a few minutes and we continued on to get a little distance between us. At this point Joey was shivering across from me in the raft and I began to have second thoughts about bringing him. I ran into to real bad weather in 2005 on the Arolik and started to wonder what I got myself into this time. We floated for several more hours and found a nice gravel bar to set up camp. Made a quick dinner and went to bed. The next morning we could see new snow on the very distant mountain peaks. Armed Joey with several more layers of fleece and off we raced to Crooked Creek where the fishing was supposed to get better and it did.

Shot of river above Cr Creek and you can see some of the color to it.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009010.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009011.jpg

We put in a long day and made it to Crooked Creek which was about the size of the Kwethluk but crystal clear. You could see the color on one side and clear side for several miles from the confluence. We decided to test the waters and had Joey throw a streamer on a tail out seam. He hooked and landed an awesome bow and from that point the fishing just kept getting better.

Joey’s first fish of the trip took a streamer
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009012.jpg

Our second camp was below crooked creek on a bar with access to many braids. It was still cold and raining from light to heavy so we had to take advantage of small weather break to set up and take down camp. We were lucky and never had to put up or take down our tents in the rain but came very close few times. Joey started fishing the seam below our camp site and got his first grayling. We all ended up getting a few grayling but decided to pack up the next morning keep moving after a little fishing.

Joey’s first Grayling

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009013.jpg

Jet
08-17-2009, 03:52 PM
It was still cold and raining but Joey never got cold like he did on the first day. Once fish were caught he did not have any issues with the cool weather. As it turned out we had to endure 3 days of chilly weather with light to heavy rains. After that the weather just started to get better and we would see the sun. Some days too much sun and we never would have thought how hot 65 degrees can feel. I kept a journal for the first tine on this trip and saved some memories of each day and camp site. We ended up spending 11 nights and only had one 2 day camp. I think I lost about 10lbs in this trip since you burn way more calories than you eat. We had de-hydrated food for dinners and we squeezed in a few salmon. Instant oatmeal for breakfast and salme/chesse for lunch and cliff bars to fill the gaps. Very little time was used to prep, eating and clean up meals, which meant more time for fishing. This was the first trip where I did not get too sore from fishing. Joey and I had done a lot of fishing prior to the trip and that may have help. Was a little sore after the portage but only lasted a day. Frank and I shared the rowing and soon we were fighting over who got to row because you sure slept well on the days you rowed.

Joey with a nice bow a tad bigger than the average size
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009014.jpg

First arctic char or larger dollie
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009016.jpg

Here’s a spot we stooped along the way and you can get an idea of what our raft looked like loaded. Joey and Frank were tight line fishing below and Frank was amazed at Joey’s ability to catch fish after fish. We started using him as a gauge to test spots, throw his out line and if no fish in a couple casts we would move on. I fished streamers above and hooked several large bows. I don’t remember if I landed them but if I did Frank has the pictures on his camera.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009018.jpg

Our next camp turned out to be a good fishing site and we were able to have our first camp fire. We found a place that held some Sockeye, Chum, Grayling and Rainbows with a possibility of Silvers. We had a late start that morning due to heavy rains. Joey landed several Sockeye’s as he seems to have a way to piss off fish and get them to grab. He was not able to get the chum to bite. We were sitting around the fire at 11pm and Joey still had not got his chum so I suggested he use the green cone black body egg sucking leach I tied for the trip. He hooked 3 and landed 2 in about 15 mins. Once he accomplished that feat we enjoyed our fire till after midnight.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009021.jpg
Looks like they both have a smile on their faces
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009024.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009026.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009027.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009028.jpg

These were the freshest Chum I have seen on several trips
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009030.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009032.jpg

Even I got lucky and picked up a hot male who made a great run

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009034.jpg

Frank hooked a small jack king salmon and when I landed the boat on a gravel bar the fish came unbuttoned. The funny thing was he stayed in the area and a few casts latter Joey had him hooked up a second time.

Jack King Salmon
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009037.jpg

Dad with a nice bow.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009041.jpg

Adult King that kicked Joeys butt
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009042.jpg

I think it will take too long to try and go camp by camp so I will try to summarize some of the highlights of the trip. Joey was able to catch and release 8 new species of fish on this trip (Grayling, Dollie Varden, Arctic Char, Pike, Sockeye, Chum, Silver, Pink & King salmon). Leopard Trout are pretty nice and hard to describe.

The first 25 miles above crooked creek were colored by glacial runoff and we did not catch a single fish but we were not fishing too hard. We were able to make it to crooked creek on our second day due to the winds pushing us down stream. The fishing picked up and we ran into several King runs where all you need to do was drop an egg for large rainbows, grayling and dollies. Double hook-up every time. The King runs seemed to be in places where there were no suitable placed to stop and fish so we just drifted through them. We did hook a few kings as they will take eggs but they were hard to impossible to land on a 7wt. We did try streamers against the banks with pretty good success. We also did some serious mousing and Joey lost many flies to trees and logs. I would suggest that it’s never too soon to start mousing and make sure you have a large supply. The egg thing gets old after a while and the quality fish on streamer and mice make up for the volume. We ran into some silvers above the weir but not huge numbers. We all could catch a fish or two and then had to rest the hole for a while. Some of the brightest silver's were higher up in the river. Below the fish weir the river widened up and started to become silver water but there were some pike in Magic creek. Make a note not camp to close below the weir as the dead salmon seem to wash up on the gravel bars. Not only do they stink but we had a bear that came back 3 times even though we tried to chase him off. He came back during the night and walked the coastline looked for the best of the decaying fish. We had issues with bears as we were always down wind so they could never catch our scent and sound did not travel very well up wind. We camped one night at Magic creek to fish for pike and it had the best silver hole we came across so far. The camp site was lumpy and no wood but it had good fishing. While we were eating our dinner a group of 3 locals (White guys who live in Bethel) in a jet boat pull into our silver hole and start fishing before we had a chance. They yell up to us that we picked a good camp site and that there was a great silver hole. All we could do was watch as they kept every fish well in the 20’s even though the limit was 5 each. We were not too upset since we had caught several silvers already and Joey and I had never caught a pike. So we rowed our unloaded raft past the jet boat up into Magic Creek. Frank rowed so Joey and I could catch our first Pike on a fly. We both did and the jet boat left after about 4 hours. The silver hole fisted pretty good in the morning. The further down we went the muddier the silver holes became and camping on holes became more difficult. I got stuck real bad in the mud and had one leg go down above my knee. I became exhausted trying to get out with my boot intact. I ended up knelling on one of the oars while Frank dug my foot out with the other oar. I was breathless by the time we were done and made think twice about doing the trip with just Joey and myself. The silvers were very hot and we had several that got leader wrapped around the gills and we were forced to eat them for dinner. I think the Kwethluk had the best fishing I have seen after 3 trips and there are some big trout and I only wished we targeted them sooner.

Jet
08-17-2009, 03:59 PM
First Silver of Trip
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009044.jpg

Sockeye in same hole
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009045.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009049.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009050.jpg
Someone said you can’t catch silver’s on chartreuse! Looks like you can

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009051.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009052.jpg
Joey put a clouser in his hat and he looked like an Indian with a feather in his cap. Joey was able to pull all the line off his reel and cast the entire line from that spot to hit the seam with the fast water,
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009053.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009055.jpg
Moon rising over the camp fire
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009058.jpg

Joey’s nice bow taken on a Caribou Mouse tied by Frank R
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009060.jpg

Silver on his Spey rod
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009066.jpg

Nice Buck Silver
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009067.jpg

Grayling that took a mouse
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009068.jpg

First pike x 2
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009074.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009073.jpg

Eagles Nest
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009081.jpg

Happy Camper
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i219/jetax/Kwethluk%202009/Kwethluk2009082.jpg

I guess some of you are wondering if I would take a 13 year kid again on such a trip. I think it depends on the kid and Joey is way into fishing. It was a lot of work with just the 3 of us but he never complained the whole time. Not even when he was shivering on the first day. PaPa Bears offers deals for kids and I used sky miles to get him a free ticked. So the cost to bring him was minimal except for equipment and clothing. We shared a tent so there was not much more gear than I would bring if I went alone. I think it was an experience of a lifetime and he has come back a changed young man. It takes a lot to survive out there for that many days and changing camps every day and you test yourself like you never before have. I’m still recovering and it’s been over a week. Not sure if and when we will get a chance to go back but Joey said he is ready to go now. He is currently considering trying out for the Team USA Youth fly-fishing team. We missed the tryouts that were held in Montana while we were attending this trip. They will have some more tryouts this spring and we hope to attend.

Tight Lines,

Jet

No indicators were ever used since we left them all home and never once wished we had them!

Garrett S
08-17-2009, 04:40 PM
WOW!!! Those fish had some amazing colors

Scott V
08-17-2009, 05:43 PM
Awesome report Jet, I am glad you and Joey had a great time. But where are the bear pictures?

Flycanoe
08-17-2009, 06:43 PM
Awesome! Just Awesome! What a great trip for you and your son. Thank you for posting so much detail.

CODY
08-17-2009, 07:13 PM
Excellent report and trip. Joey should tryout for the team, i went to the Mt tryouts and made the team. It was a great experience and you learn a ton. Theres another tryout in the spring in PA.

huntindog
08-18-2009, 05:57 AM
Jet, that is so cool. I think i drooled on my laptop while looking at all those fish. I can't wait until Shane is old enough to take him on a similar trip. Love the big bows. You guys rock...so is joey starting football now? If so hope he has fun. If not...well the steelhead are coming.

Jeff C.
08-18-2009, 07:37 AM
Great report Jet. It looks like you and Joey had a great trip. There are halfpounders on the American and Feather now so maybe I'll see you guys out on the water. Jeff C.

Tony P
08-18-2009, 07:49 AM
What a great report =D>=D>!!! Those are memories you & Joey will cherish forever.

Tony P

Bill Kiene semi-retired
08-18-2009, 07:54 AM
Looked like an adventure of a lifetime.............cool.

Jet
08-18-2009, 11:53 AM
Hey Cody,
Congrats for making the team. We wanted to go real bad but could not alter our trip. Sounds like you got to meet some neat people and learn lots of new things. If you could e-mail me @jetax@sbcglobal.net I would love to hear how the program works and what is expected of you once you make the team.

Regards,

Joe Tax

JohnS
08-18-2009, 05:05 PM
Jet

will you adopt me and take me on your next trip (and will my new "brother" Joey teach me how to fish as well as he does). Also how come all his fish appear bigger than yours. Must be the camera lens and the parallax effect!!!
:lol:

John