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View Full Version : Costa Rica trip report from a friend



Bill Kiene semi-retired
01-01-2008, 11:40 AM
We decided on February in Costa Rica a little late -- actually about this time of year -- and stayed at the Parador for the West coast part our 25th Anniversary 9 days. It was nice enough and convenient, but I think the Tulemar Bungalos would be a little more exotic, and Si Como No is "hipper" with the inifiniti pools and nightly entertainment. El Gran Escape is fun for sure and there are some less americanized, great local places. We spent our anniversary evening at a little place with fabulous seafood run by another wonderful "Tico" family. When they found out it was both our first visit and our anniversary, we got the royal treatment. The 7 beaches of Manuel Antonio are great for strolling, lazing, and throwing a frisbee and get more secluded as you walk South. The forest is amazing and I believe that the canopy tour of the park may be up and running now.

Sailfishing on "El Pescador del Mar", a 31 Bertram, was unbelieveable for this sailfish rookie. It was so good that after my 1st two, Patti wanted to try and I could barely get in the rotation after she landed her 1st. She gets green pretty easily and was a little nervous about spoiling my day, but our local Fishabout contact was right in reassuring her that we would be in some of the calmest blue water in the Pacific. We fished in a long-period swell that was only noticeable when running, were surrounded by turtles and free jumpers all day, and ended up with 12 sails to the boat. Afterwards, all the American annual regulars at El Gran Escape sat her up on the bar, showered her with boquets of exotic flowers, ordered a giant marguerita, did the "we're not worthy", and had her hold court about her day sailfishing. She was thrilled!

We got lucky and were there during the Festival de Quepos, Costa Rica's largest music festival featuring many of their hottest bands and dancing in the streets. (The music is much more akin to Salsa and Carribe than Mariachi.) The festival, like many things in Costa Rica, happens in January or February, kind of whenever it gets organized. The locals were very nice to us, friendly, engaging, and helpful to a fault. We felt very safe and didn't see a single quarrelsome incident, although I've heard that petty crime -- cameras stolen from cars, etc. -- has increased, but I don't leave things visible in my car stateside, so a little common sense is in order. We didn't notice the security until we walked out of town to meet our driver and found that all of the exits from the central 6-8 square blocks were guarded by seriously armed police, kind of the Tico equivalent of the Italian Carbiniere. They were totally unobstrusive, friendly actually, but it was nice to know they were there.

An unexpected highlight of our trip was our day of horse back riding at Rancho de Los Toucanes, Ranch of the Toucans. It's about a 45 minute cab ride outside of town and is a working horse ranch in primary and 2ndary rainforest. They raise some of the finest competition horses in Costa Rica that are bred for their smooth gait at speed. Patti rides like I fish, or maybe I ride like she fishes, but like her sailfishing, I loved the horses. Patti said they were the best she has ever ridden. I was just happy to gallop without falling off. We spent all day there, riding with a naturalist guide into the mountains & virgin forest with toucans and wild bananas and carpenter ants and lunch at a waterfall that was home to hundreds of micro frogs that only live there. The ranch hosts tours for cruise ships (none were in) and the family serves an excellent traditional meal at their dining area. The family patriarch joined us afterwards for coffee and we engaged this wonderful, old, Tico gentleman -- he dressed, looked, and acted like Don Diego de la Varga -- for several hours about the history and future of both Costa Rica and the ranch. Fabulous!

FYI, we spent our first 3 days at Silver King Lodge on the East Coast. I tarpon fished morning and afternoon and spent midday and evenings with Patti at the lodge. A flood in Nicarauga muddied the river and slowed the fishing, but I landed 4 to 135 lbs and lost a couple more, one approaching 200 lbs that put on a graphic demonstration of the power of the Silver King as he cartwheeled through the breakers at the rivermouth. There's nowhere to go outside the lodge compound because of the crocs, snakes, and jaguars, but Patti was happy having a late breakfast with the chef, laying in a hammock practicing her Spanish with the crew, and watching the crocodiles and local traffic on the Rio Colorado while macaws perched on her shoulders & the owner's german shepherds kept her from missing our dogs too much. Fishing was slow one morning, so my guide, Clifford, had the chef put together box lunches and took us on a 4+ hour tour of the river, his village and family home, and some abandoned plantations. I fished for ghuapote and machaca with a 7 wt when we were in the right spots. Lot's of spider and howler monkeys and other wildlife up close and personal. The food was fabulous and the pool, spa, and private bungaloes were just right. The howler monkeys would go off en mass before every rainstorm, and the downpours on the roof were amazing and very romatic.

We liked CR so much that our god son and new wife went there for their honeymoon. They spent a week on a deluxe dive charter in the offshore islands with a couple of days in Quepos on either end. Their underwater photo of swimming in a school of hundreds of wahoo still blows my mind! The rainfall makes the inshore waters a little off color, so snorkeling is not really an option in Quepos.

If you fly into San Jose and spend your 1st night there, go to the Italian restaraunt and piano bar within walking distance at the top of a hill. The food was great and the owners and friends often close the place up: we stayed until 2 drinking and hearing about how they all ended up in Costa Rica and why they love it. What a great way to start our trip!

Whatever you do, resist the temptation to drive! It's a 6 1/2 hour drive from San Jose to Quepos that took us 20 minutes by twin-engine Piper for about $150 round trip for both of us. That's not even taking into account the crazy Tico drivers on narrow roads. Nobody seems to get upset, but accidents quickly turn into reunions with a seeming disregard for where anyone was trying to go. We hired our airport shuttle driver for about $40/day to show us the "real" Costa Rica and to get us from here to there when we wanted to be on our own.

Despite the wonderful weather (75-85 rain or shine) and great fishing, the best part of Costa Rica is the people. They have a higher literacy rate than the U.S. or Canada, the 2nd longest average life span behind Japan, and, in general, are the nicest people we have met anywhere. They get that eco-tourism is a way to preserve their country while maintaining the economy, so guests are treated like long lost friends. Most Ticos speak some English, but practicing our Spanish made it possible to have in depth conversations about Costa Rica and to share some extra laughs.

We can't wait to get back! Pura Vida - Jeff W