Smith River

[Mike Stroud]

Heading to the Smith next month... previous guides I've been with, mainly use gear and I've had good luck with them. Anyone spend much time up there with a fly rod? I'd like to use my single, or two-handed rod on the Smith... Can anybody give me a readers' digest on what to use up there?

[STEELIES/26c3]

From December through March, the mainstem Smith--from just above Hiouchi to its mouth--offers beguiling glides and riffles tailored for traditional steelhead fly fishing. Hooking a steelhead in these waters is one of California's most challenging tasks. The fast, deep waters of these runs require 8-weight rods, high-density sinking-tips, and big (#6-#1/0) flies. The Eel River wet-fly swing setup with short 3- to 6-foot leaders tapered to 10- or 12-pound-test tippets also works on the Smith. Anglers who prefer heavier rods, or who enjoy casting two-handers, can use them on the Smith.

During rare low-water conditions, some runs can be covered with a dry line, but it's best to stick with sinking-tips. The Smith is cold and has lots of fishing pressure, so the fish usually hold tight in one place. Leave the deep pools for the traditional gear anglers, and fish the riffles, glides, and tailouts, where steelhead are more receptive to the fly.

Only the lowest mile of the North Fork of the Smith is open to fishing, but the Middle and South Forks offer unbelievable scenery and attractive riffles and glides. Highway 199 borders the Middle Fork (open to fishing from Patrick Creek to the mainstem), which has a decent push of winter steelhead and a few classic fly-fishing runs. Though road access is limited, the South Fork is the least-fished tributary. It has a strong winter steelhead run and excellent pools for fishing traditional swings, as well as ideal runs for nymphing with indicators and weighted egg, stonefly, and nymph patterns.

The key to fishing the Smith is to watch the flows. The Smith's daily flow rates are available at (707) 458-3659 (sounds like a fax machine, but eventually a recorded voice gives the flow rate). Fish the Middle and South forks when the river level is less than 11 feet. Above this level, you'll do better on the lower mainstem unless the river goes above about 18 river feet. Like all North Coast rivers, the Smith is also subject to low-flow closures.

Probably more large winter steelhead are hooked and landed in a dozen pools spread out through seven miles of redwood groves found between the Highway 101 Bridge and the hamlet of Hiouchi than in any other stretch of river in California. The pools are well known among fly fishermen and familiar to anyone who has read the fishing stories of Russell Chatham. Some of the more prominent are Brundeen, White Horse, and Water Gauge riffles and the holes Early, Walker, Society, Hiouchi Bridge, Bluff, Park, Sophie, and Cable.

Although the Smith is best fished from a boat, most of the good redwood pools have some bank access. I find the path that leads through the grove in the campground and come out upon a wide gravel bar that is wet and shiny from the rain. This is Park Hole, and the water in the transparent shallows darkens to a deeper emerald the farther out I wade and cast. I move cautiously up to my waist, but am forced to step back a bit, as the current is too strong in this deceptively smooth-looking pool.

I am using a 300-grain shooting head to get my fly down to the bottom. The Smith is not an easy river to fly fish. Winter steelhead hold close to the bottom and won’t move far to chase a fly. The current is strong even in the more peaceful looking pools and has a tendency to sweep a fly off the bottom and out of the fish’s range. Many fishermen adjust for this by using a floating line with a strike indicator, a long leader, split-shot, and a heavily weighted fly. But I prefer to fly fish in the more traditional manner.

With a firm sweep, I roll cast line out of the water, make several long false casts, and then shoot line as far out over the river as I can get it. At first I angle my casts slightly downstream, but this way the fly doesn’t get down far enough, so I begin casting straight across to give it more time to sink.

I am working the fly through the tail end of the pool when I feel a tug on my line and pull up. A steelhead vaults out of the water, returns with a splash, and begins kicking up a boil on the surface. I back out of the water to follow the fish that is pulling hard at my line, my reel sputtering like a flatulent duck. I am not only fighting the fish I am battling the strong current. Fifteen minutes later I manage to beach the fish and lay it momentarily on the gravel where it shines like a bar of freshly minted silver.

I let the steelhead go and work my way through the tailout of Park Hole and then over to the next pool downstream, Bluff Hole. I’d probably do better fishing this pool from a short gravel bar on the opposite bank, but crossing the river would be a chore, requiring a long drive over the bridge to the south bank and a short hike on the Hiouchi Trail, a footpath that follows the river through the redwoods.

[STEELIES/26c3]

IN my own words...

You might also look at Redwood Creek for some solitude and fish as it is very close to the Jed Smith.

M

[Mike Stroud]

Thanks very much for the detail M! Nice parable for a Walton scene. Your visualization will stay clear in my mind, as I venture out the the Park Hole. I have seen fish hugging the bottom in that area and will heed to caution, regarding the strong currents. A guide perished in that area last year, and the memory is fresh.

I have a gear guide for two days and I'll think I'll head up a couple days early for some fly action. Have an 8wt w/T-200 shooting head. Should do the trick. I like the idea of checking Redwood Creek. Will let you know how we do!

Tight Lines... and thank you!