How do you make a loop for multi-tip fly line

[rossbo]

Anyone know how to make loops similar to the ones used on multi-tip flylines?. I've got a floating line that I would like to interchange with a sinktip and am too cheap to buy the multi-tip 4-lines-in-one. The commercial ones I’ve seen seem to cut the line about 10 ft. from the end and make loops that aren't supposed to hinge when casting. Needs to hold fish 10 – 15 lbs. on 8 wt. reel.
Thanks, Ross Boehm

[David Lee]

Use 50 lb. braided monofiliment loops .

Go to www.danblanton.com check the tips page for a step by step on how to make them .

David :D

[Adam Grace]

Rossbo, David posted a link to a great type of loop. Kiene's sells pre-made loops (4 packs at around $10 I think) that take the trouble out of making the loops yourself and also purchasing a whole spool of braided mono which is much more than you really need. If you cannot purchase them from Bill they are called "perfect loops" they come in a 35lb or 50lb packages. Those loops are great for a do-it-yourself line project.

Have fun.

[rossbo]

Thanks for the info. That's a great website.
Ross

[Rick J]

I actually prefer to strip off maybe 2 inches of the coating and thread a piece of braided mono (maybe 25#) onto the stipped piece and slightly onto the plastic coating - then whip finish a loop using thread - this may be a bit more bulky but there is no chance of hinging - If you just use a braided loop, depending on how long the loop is and the doubled sleeve this could be flexible enough to cause some hinging.

[bigtj]

I think you will find the epoxy loop splice is the best way to go. It's in Trey Comb's 1976 book. Braided loops are OK but I think they are too "hingy". Most of the guys in the PNW, where multi-tip lines for steelhead and salmon originated, have been using the epoxy loop splice over all other connections for quite some time. And, it's the loop that Rio was using before it figured out how to weld the fly line.

[Darian]

Hmmm,.... Is the Trey Combs book referred to titled: "Fly Fishing For Pacific Salmon" :?: :?: If so, isn't the loop mentioned in that book the Russ Peak loop :?: :?: The description of that loop doesn't include epoxy as a component... :? :? At any rate, the Russ Peak loop appears to lend itself to use with lines that have braided cores; requiring stitching to "sew" the loop in place before whipping a cover for the adhesive. A very good loop. 8) 8)

Over the years, I've tried almost every loop mentioned (with the exception of Max Garth's co-axial loop) and decided that I will not use epoxy for an adhesive on knots and use UV knot Sense in emergency situations only. 8) 8) Epoxy is too stiff and has caused the fly line on either side of the epoxy/knot to crack. :( :( I routinely use the braided loops on all shooting heads and some heavier WF lines. I use Pliobond for cement as it's flexible. I've not experienced any hinging or failures in fresh or saltwater using braided loops on some very hard pullers.

I've had only one multi-tip, commercial line and found it unsatisfactory for my purposes. IMHO, these lines, while necessary for Spey casting, are so thick at the junction point between the tip and the main line that they use up too much space availble for backing. :( :( Don't need those with a "switch rod". :D :D :D